Journal of a Tour in the Years 1828-1829, through Styria, Carniola, and Italy, whilst Accompanying the Late Sir Humphry DavyTobin, J. J.
History
Journal of a Tour in the Years 1828-1829, through Styria, Carniola, and Italy, whilst Accompanying the Late Sir Humphry Davy
Tobin, J. J.
Davy, Humphry, Sir, 1778-1829; Europe -- Description and travel
_8th._ We quitted Ferrara in very bad weather, it having snowed all
night, and snow and sleet still continued to fall during the day. We
stopped to bait at a lone house, which proved to be a very large and
good inn, and then proceeded after dinner to Bologna, which we entered
in company with three other English carriages. This is a very fine
city, with good streets, on each side of which are lofty arcades, so
that even in the worst weather one can walk through the greater part
of the town without getting wet. In the evening I finished reading the
"Castle of Otranto" to Sir Humphry, for the second time.
_9th._ Sir Humphry dictated a letter this morning to Professor
Morichini at Rome, and I afterwards walked about the town whilst he
paid a visit to Madame M----, the wife of a sculptor to whom he had
been introduced when he was formerly in Italy. The streets appear well
built and modern, though very dirty, and the houses are for the most
part fine and lofty; but there are very few grand single buildings
or churches; many of the latter are only to be distinguished from
private houses under the arcades, by a coloured drapery hung over the
door. The Neptune which surmounts the fountain in the square of the
cathedral, a work by Jean de Bologna, certainly has its merits as a
statue, but the poor water-god enjoys so little of his element, that he
can scarcely provide for the wants of his immediate neighbours. After
wandering quite alone through the town, the whole morning and a part of
the afternoon, I returned to the hotel St. Marco. Madame M---- having
invited Sir Humphry to take a seat in her box at the theatre in the
evening, I went to see the play and ballet, and was very much pleased
with each. The house is spacious and grand, but dark; the spectacle
showy, and the singing and ballet very good.
_10th._ A wet and rainy day. We left Bologna at eight in the morning,
and had a dreary and unpleasant day's journey through a flat country,
to Faenza, having only stopped to bait at a little village on the road.
_11th._ Left Faenza this morning, and arrived in the evening at
Rimini, passing through Forti and Cecena. Every step we now advance
is on heroic ground; and before entering Rimini near Savignano, we
passed over the Rubicon, a little insignificant stream, though once
the boundary of the most powerful state in the world. The bridge over
the little river which flows by the gates of Rimini, is said to have
stood for twenty centuries; and in the middle of the town is an ancient
triumphal arch nearly as old. It was built by Augustus on his return
from his victory over Marc Antony, and is a fine simple arch of stone,
though now patched up with bricks. The town is small and dirty, and the
_Leon Bianco_ is a wretched inn.
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