Journal of an African Cruiser: Comprising Sketches of the Canaries, the Cape De Verds, Liberia, Madeira, Sierra Leone, and Other Places of Interest on the West Coast of AfricaBridge, Horatio
History
Journal of an African Cruiser: Comprising Sketches of the Canaries, the Cape De Verds, Liberia, Madeira, Sierra Leone, and Other Places of Interest on the West Coast of Africa
Bridge, Horatio
Africa, West -- Description and travel; Bridge, Horatio, 1806-1893
In going up the mountain, the traveller encounters many peasants, both men
and women, with bundles of weeds for horses, and sticks for fire-wood,
which are carried upon the head. Thus laden, they walk several miles, and
perhaps sell their burthens for ten or twelve cents apiece. Articles
cannot easily be conveyed in any other manner, down the steep declivities
of the hills. In the city, burthens are drawn by oxen, on little drags,
which glide easily over the smooth, round pavements. The driver carries in
his hand a long mop without a handle, or what a sailor would term a "wet
swab." If any difficulty occur in drawing the load, this moist mop is
thrown before the drag, which readily glides over it.
The beggars of Funchal are numerous and importunate, and many of them
wretched enough, as, in one instance, I had occasion to witness. With a
friend, I had quitted a ball at two o'clock in the morning. The porter of
our hotel, not expecting us at so late an hour, had retired; and, as all
the family slept in the back part of the house, we were unable to awaken
them by our long and furious knocking. Several Englishmen occupied the
front apartments, but scorned to give themselves any trouble about the
matter, except to breathe a slumberous execration against the disturbers
of their sleep. On the other hand, our anathemas were louder, and quite as
bitter upon these inhospitable inmates. Finally, after half an hour's
vigorous but ineffectual assault upon the portal, we retreated in despair,
and betook ourselves to walk the streets. The night was beautifully clear,
but too cool for the enervated frame of an African voyager. We were tired
with dancing, and occasionally sat down; but the door-steps were all of
stone, and, though we buttoned our coats closely, it was impossible to
remain long inactive.
Near morning, we approached the door of the Cathedral, and were about to
seat ourselves, when we perceived a person crouching on the spot, and
apparently asleep. The slumber was not sound; for when we spoke, a young
girl, a mere rose-bud of a woman, about fourteen years of age, arose and
answered. She was very thinly clad; and, with her whole frame shivering,
the poor thing assumed an airy and mirthful deportment, to attract us. It
was grievous to imagine how many nights like this the unhappy girl was
doomed to pass, and that all her nights were such, unless when vice and
degradation procured her a temporary shelter. Ever since that hour, when I
picture the pleasant island of Madeira, with its sunshine, and its
vineyards, and its jovial inhabitants, the shadow of this miserable child
glides through the scene.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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