Journal of an African Cruiser: Comprising Sketches of the Canaries, the Cape De Verds, Liberia, Madeira, Sierra Leone, and Other Places of Interest on the West Coast of AfricaBridge, Horatio
History
Journal of an African Cruiser: Comprising Sketches of the Canaries, the Cape De Verds, Liberia, Madeira, Sierra Leone, and Other Places of Interest on the West Coast of Africa
Bridge, Horatio
Africa, West -- Description and travel; Bridge, Horatio, 1806-1893
One of the most beautiful houses of worship I have ever seen, is the
English church, just outside of the city of Funchal. The edifice has no
steeple or bells, these being prohibited by the treaty between Portugal
and Great Britain, which permits the English protestants to erect
churches. You approach it through neat gravel walks, lined with the most
brilliant flowers, and these in such magnificent profusion, that the
building may be said to stand in the midst of a great flower-garden. The
aspect is certainly more agreeable, if not more appropriate, than that of
the tombstones and little hillocks which usually surround the sacred
edifice; it is one method of rendering the way to Heaven a path of
flowers. On entering the church, we perceive a circular apartment, lighted
by a dome of stained glass. The finish of the interior is perfectly neat,
but simple. The organ is fine-toned, and was skilfully played. Pleasant it
was to see again a church full of well-dressed English--those Saxon faces,
nearest of kin to our own--and to hear once more the familiar service,
after being so long shut out from consecrated walls!
Sunday is not observed with much strictness, in Madeira. On the evening of
that day, I called at a friend's house, where thirty or forty persons, all
Portuguese, were collected, without invitation. Music, dancing, and cards,
were introduced for the entertainment of the guests. The elder portion sat
down to whist; and, in a corner of the large dancing room, one of the
gentlemen established a faro-bank, which attracted most of the company to
look on, or bet. So much more powerful were the cards than the ladies,
that it was found difficult to enlist gentlemen for a single cotillion.
After a while, dancing was abandoned, and cards ruled supreme. The married
ladies made bets as freely as the gentlemen; and several younger ones,
though more reserved, yet found courage to put down their small stakes. I
observed one sweet girl of sixteen, standing over the table, and watching
the game with intense interest. Methought the game within her bosom was
for a more serious stake than that upon the table, and better worth the
observer's notice. Who should win it?--her guardian angel? or the gambling
fiend? Alas, the latter! She bashfully drew a little purse from her bosom,
and put her stake down with the rest.
The currency of Madeira is principally composed of the old-fashioned
twenty cent pieces, called cruzados, which pass at the rate of five for a
dollar. Payments of thousands of dollars are made in this coin, which, not
being profitable to remit, circulates from hand to hand.
CHAPTER XII.
Passage back to Liberia--Coffee Plantations--Dinner on Shore--Character of
Col. Hicks--Shells and Sentiment--Visit to the Council Chamber--the New
Georgia Representative--a Slave-Ship--Expedition up the St. Paul's--Sugar
Manufactory--Maumee's beautiful Grand-Daughter--the Sleepy Disease--the
Mangrove-Tree.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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