Journal of the Waterloo campaign, vol. 1 (of 2) : $b kept throughout the campaign of 1815Mercer, Cavalié
History
Journal of the Waterloo campaign, vol. 1 (of 2) : $b kept throughout the campaign of 1815
Mercer, Cavalié
Mercer, Cavalié, 1783-1868 -- Diaries; Waterloo, Battle of, Waterloo, Belgium, 1815 -- Personal narratives, British
Bruges is a highly interesting town at all times; but after being
shut out from the Continent so many years, the novelty of everything
one saw enhanced this interest amazingly. My ramble led me through
streets of lofty, whimsically constructed houses, the upper parts
of which sometimes projected in the manner one frequently sees in
our old midland towns, the projections decorated with drop-balls
on fretwork; immense windows sometimes occupied the whole front of
each floor; ample portals, the lofty folding-doors of which were
occasionally studded with iron, like those of a fortress or dungeon;
gables, with high pointed roofs, presented almost everywhere to the
street; chimneys of bizarre and fantastic forms, and surmounted by
a finish of semicircular tiles rising pyramidally over each other;
here and there towers or turrets with high conical roofs;--such were
the architectural peculiarities that attracted my attention. The
long streets running in wavy lines, and of unequal breadth, between
these grotesque buildings, exhibited specimens of costume as novel,
and frequently not less grotesque, which, intermingling with the
scarlet and blue uniforms of our soldiers, very much heightened the
picturesque effect. It was only in the principal thoroughfares and
business parts of the town that all this animation was met with.
In those quarters principally inhabited by the richer citizens
the streets were as dull, solitary, and scrupulously clean as it
is possible to conceive. In these I frequently found myself the
only animated being visible--not a loiterer at a door, not even a
head at a window. Many of even the best houses appeared absolutely
uninhabited. Could this have always been the case? Was this the
state of things when Bruges was the central mart for the whole Pays
Bas, and saw merchants from every nation in Europe crowding to its
fairs in search of its linen and woollen cloth, and of the naval
stores and rich productions of India continually arriving from the
north, the Venetian and other Italian States, when the splendid dress
and magnificent palaces of its citizens were sufficient to excite
the indignation and envy of a queen? Surely not. These grass-grown
streets, now so solitary, then exhibited very different scenes. Many
a plumed and portly burgher then trod their pavement, and many a fair
bejewelled dame graced the numerous windows of its palaces, now so
silent. This decay and depopulation dates from the moment when these
wealthy merchants arrogantly resisted their sovereign, Maximilian,
who, aided by Antwerp and Amsterdam, shut up its port of Sluys, and
thus, diverting its commerce into other channels, inflicted on it
that punishment the effects of which are so perceptible even after
a lapse of more than 300 years. From these melancholy monuments
of fallen grandeur, and the death-like silence of these deserted
streets, I suddenly emerged into the midst of bustle in the Grand
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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