Journal of the Waterloo campaign, vol. 1 (of 2) : $b kept throughout the campaign of 1815Mercer, Cavalié
History
Journal of the Waterloo campaign, vol. 1 (of 2) : $b kept throughout the campaign of 1815
Mercer, Cavalié
Mercer, Cavalié, 1783-1868 -- Diaries; Waterloo, Battle of, Waterloo, Belgium, 1815 -- Personal narratives, British
The nave of the church was not spoilt, as ours are, by pews. A
number of plain chairs were assembled round the pillars, and these
served the worshippers to kneel upon--that is, the men, for the
women invariably sank on the pavement in most picturesque attitudes.
Of the latter, most seemed in earnest; but with the former, a duty
was hurried through, in which the heart had evidently little or
no concern. Some certainly placed both knees on the chairs, and,
leaning over the backs with clasped hands, kept their eyes steadily
on the altar, whilst the rapid motion of their lips betrayed the
hurried manner in which they prayed. Others, however, with one knee
only on the chair, and the body half-turned, gazed about them whilst
mumbling over their daily portion of prayer. People were continually
coming in and going out, which seemed to disturb no one, but rather
served as amusement to the gazers just mentioned. However lukewarm
the frequenters of the temple might evince themselves, yet was there
something very impressive in the scene. In a pictorial point of view
it was most interesting, for the building is a fine Gothic structure,
and the interior of these always affords picturesque scenery, even
without such accessories as those furnished by the various kneeling
groups, more particularly of females. Some good pictures I saw, but
did not like to stop and examine them. A striking feature in this
church are the colossal statues of the Apostles perched upon shelves,
one to each column of the nave: the effect is not good. The pulpit,
and staircase leading up to it, are a most elaborate and ingenious
example of sculpture in wood. The impression on me was one of wonder
at the inexhaustible patience of the artist. Sauntering about the
church, near the great door I stumbled upon something not unlike
a sentry-box; it was a confessional! In this sat a sleek-looking
priest, head resting on his left hand, and the ear inclined to a
little grated aperture in one side, through which a female on her
knees, and shrouded in a black veil, poured out her heart in a loud
whisper. The holy man received the communication with becoming
gravity, though it was easy to divine, by a short perusal of his
countenance, that he was receiving nothing but commonplace, or at
best no very important, intelligence. Everything in this religion
appears most childish mummery;--what more so than this? Leaving Notre
Dame, I sought the ramparts. These no longer exist in a military
sense, but the high grassy mounds which remain, being planted with
trees, serve at once as a pretty promenade, and diversify the views
of the city from without. The moat in most places still remains
green--almost as the meadows--with aquatic plants. Some of the
ancient gateways, also, are still there to tell a tale of other
times. These, with their sombre grey towers, roofed with tile, are
eminently picturesque, and harmonise well with the other buildings
of the town.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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