Where the open trail skirted a hillside we came suddenly upon a
great gathering of these goatsuckers, engaged in some strange
midnight revel. Usually they roost and hunt and call in solitude,
but here at least forty were collected on the white sand within an
area of a few yards. We stopped and watched. They were dancing--or,
rather, popping, as corn pops in a hopper. One after another, or a
half dozen at a time, they bounced up a foot or two from the ground
and flopped back, at the instant of leaving and returning uttering
a sudden, explosive _wop!_ This they kept up unceasingly for the
five minutes we gave to them, and our passage interrupted them for
only a moment. Later we passed single birds which popped and wopped
in solitary state; whether practicing, or snobbishly refusing to
perform in public, only they could tell. It was a scene not soon
forgotten.
Suddenly before us rose the jungle, raw-edged, with border zone of
bleached, ashamed trunks and lofty branches white as chalk, of dead
and dying trees. For no jungle tree, however hardy, can withstand
the blasting of violent sun after the veiling of emerald foliage is
torn away. As the diver plunges beneath the waves, so, after one
glance backward over the silvered landscape, I passed at a single
stride into what seemed by contrast inky blackness, relieved by the
trail ahead, which showed as does a ray of light through closed
eyelids. As the chirruping rails climbed among the roots of the
tall cat-tails out yonder, so we now crept far beneath the level
of the moonlit foliage. The silvery landscape had been shifted one
hundred, two hundred feet above the earth. We had become lords of
creation in name alone, threading our way humbly among the fungi
and toad-stools, able only to look aloft and wonder what it was
like. And for a long time no voice answered to tell us whether any
creature lived and moved in the tree-tops.
The tropical jungle by day is the most wonderful place in the
world. At night I am sure it is the most weirdly beautiful of
all places outside the world. For it is primarily unearthly,
unreal; and at last I came to know why. In the light of the full
moon it was rejuvenated. The simile of theatrical scenery was
always present to the mind, the illusion lying especially in the
completeness of transformation from the jungle by daylight. The
theatrical effect was heightened by the sense of being in some
vast building. This was due to the complete absence of any breath
of air. Not a leaf moved; even the pendulous air-roots reaching
down their seventy-foot plummets for the touch of soil did not
sway a hair’s breadth. The throb of the pulse set the rhythm
for one’s steps. The silence, for a time, was as perfect as the
breathlessness. It was a wonderfully ventilated amphitheatre; the
air was as free from any feeling of tropical heat, as it lacked all
crispness of the north. It was exactly the temperature of one’s
skin. Heat and cold were for the moment as unthinkable as wind.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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