Guyana -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Guyana
The weed along the coast is honest growth, with promise of permanence.
The great floating Sargasso Sea is permanent only in appearance, and
when finally the big masses drift, with all their lesser, attendant
freight into the gulf stream, then life becomes a sham. There can be no
more fruiting or sustained development of gas-filled berries. No eggs of
fish or crabs will hatch, no new generation of sea-horses or mollusks
appear among the stems. Bravely the fronds float along, day by day the
hundred little lives breathe and feed and cling to their drifting home.
But soon the gas berries decay and the fronds sink lower and lower. As
the current flows northward, and the water becomes colder the crabs move
less rapidly, the fish nibble less eagerly at the bits of passing food.
Soon a sea-horse lets go and falls slowly downward, to be snapped up at
once or to sink steadily into the eternal dusk and black night of deeper
fathoms. Soon the plant follows and like all its chilled pensioners,
dies. The supply from the Sargasso Sea seems unfailing, but one's
sympathies are touched by these little assemblages, so teeming with the
hope of life, all doomed by the current which is at once their support,
their breath and their kismet.
But all these creatures, interesting as they are, form but a tithe of
the life existing around and beneath the ship. Night after night I lean
over the bow and watch the phosphorescence flare and flash beneath the
surface, the disturbance of the steamer's approach springing a myriad of
these floating mines, whose explosions, gentler than those of human
make, merely vibrate into a splendor of visibility. How to capture these
tiny beings which the eye can scarcely resolve is a matter far more
difficult than the netting of the seaweed. I try to plan, then give it
up. I walk restlessly over the vessel, seeking some method. But, as is
often the case, nature had fairly to force the solution upon me. Thoreau
says somewhere, "A trout in the milk is pretty good circumstantial
evidence," and in similar guise I saw the light. Early one morning I was
paddling in my salt-water bath, thinking of the coming week when I
should be able to dive into island harbors from the deck, when I sat up
suddenly at the sight of a tiny fish disporting himself with me in the
tub. At least I needed no further hint, and as I scooped up the little
being my plan was made. By exhaustive inquiry among the feminine portion
of the passengers I obtained possession of a small square of a very
fine-meshed fabric something like bolting cloth. In the evening, with
the assurance of a small monetary liaison with the bath steward, I tied
this bit of cloth over the salt-water nozzle and carefully set the
faucet so that a dribble of water trickled forth. In the morning the
cloth strainer contained a small blob of grayish jelly. This I dropped
into a tumbler and saw the water cloud with an opalescent mist of a
myriad motes and I knew that my plan was successful. No matter how
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