Guyana -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Guyana
I sat for an hour on the upper beach and watched the little native folk,
autochthones who for innumerable generations had been so loyal to their
arenaceous home that the sheltering mantle of its pale hue had fallen
upon their wings and bodies. Here were tiny, grayish-white crabs, here
were spiders, which, until they moved, were not spiders but sand. And
when they did move, recognition usually came too late to some fly, which
had trespassed on this littoral hunting ground. Tiger-beetles drifted
about like sand-grain wraiths, whose life wanderings lay between low
tide and the highest dune; veriest ghosts of their brilliant green
brethren farther inland. Ashen wasps buzzed past, with compass and maps
in their heads, enabling them to circle about once or twice, alight,
take a step or two and, kicking down their diminutive front door, to
enter the slanting sandy tube which for them fulfilled all the
requirements of home.
From an aeroplane, Barbados would appear like a circular expanse of
patchwork, or a wild futurist painting set in deepest ultramarine; a
maze of rectangles or squares of sugar-cane, with a scattering of sweet
potatoes and sea island cotton. I got a hint of this when I motored to
the highest point of land, and then climbed the steeple of the loftiest
church. At my feet was the Atlantic with great breakers, reduced by
distance to tiny wavelets twinkling among the black boulders and
feathery palms which were scattered along shore. For more than two
hundred and seventy-five years the church had stood here, and not to be
outdone by the strangeness of the little beach people, the graveyard
boasted the remains of a descendant of a Greek Emperor, who long ago had
been warden.
But again our steamer summoned us and we left the dusky natives with
their weird legends and the tiny island which they love, and were rowed
steadily out beyond the two miles of shallow coast.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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