Guyana -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Guyana
Trees were so rare that one was compelled to take notice of them. High
above the bamboos, high above even those arboreal towers of Pisa, the
cocoanut palms, rose the majestic silk-cotton trees, bare of leaves at
this season, with great branches shooting out at breathless heights.
Like strange gourd-like fruit, three sizes of nests hung pendant from
these lofty boughs: short, scattered purses of yellow orioles, colonied
clusters of the long pouches of yellow-backed _bunyahs_, and, finally,
the great, graceful, woven trumpets of the giant black caciques, rarely
beautiful, and, like the trees, scarce enough to catch and hold the eye.
The groves of cocoanut palms, like a hundred enormous green rockets ever
bursting in mid-air, checkered the sunlight, which sifted through and
was made rosy by a host of lotus blooms beneath. Then the scene changed
in a few yards, and low, untropical shrubs filled the background, while
at our feet rose rank upon rank of cat-tails, and we might be passing
across the Jersey meadows.
Each little station was the focus of a world of its own. Coolies and
blacks excitedly hustled to place on board their contribution to the
world's commerce:--tomatoes no larger than cherries, in beautifully
woven baskets; a crate of chickens or young turkeys; a live sheep
protesting and entangled in the spokes of an old-fashioned bicycle; a
box of fish, flashing silver and old rose. Some had only a single bundle
of fodder to offer. At one station, quaintly named De Kinderen, a
clear-faced coolie boy pushed a small bunch of plantains into the
freight van, then sat on the steps. As the train started to move he
settled himself as if for a long ride, and for a second or two closed
his eyes. Then he opened them, climbed down, and swung off into the last
bit of clearing. His face was sober, not a-smile at a thoughtless lark.
I looked at his little back as he trudged toward his home, and wondered
what desire for travel, for a glimpse of the world, was back of it all.
And I wished that I could have asked him about it and taken him with me.
This little narrow-gauge link with the outside world perhaps scatters
heartaches as well as shekels along its right of way.
I was watching a flock of giant _anis_, which bubbled cheerfully on
their slow flight across the fields, when a wide expanse of water
blocked our way, and we drew up at the bank of the Berbice River.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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