Kakemono : $b Japanese sketchesEdwards, A. Herbage
Religion
Kakemono : $b Japanese sketches
Edwards, A. Herbage
Japan -- Description and travel; Japan -- Social life and customs
The path from the tea-house struck out abruptly across the mountain,
and we soon stood above the trees, stood on the bare cinder-slope
that is Fuji. It was very much like walking up an ash-heap or a
ballast-mound, and about as beautiful. Below us everything was hidden
in a shifting mist; above, twenty feet of cinder-slope ended in a white
wall. It was like climbing a black rope hung between two clouds.
After the ballast-heap came a lava-bed, where a molten river of lava
had dried itself into high rocks and deep cracks, as the ice of a
glacier. We crossed it obliquely, and in the twilight saw neither
beginning nor end, neither from where it came nor to where it went; but
its pinnacles and crevasses, its tumbled waves and jagged, piled-up
ridges, lay lustreless and dark, as though of coal-black ice.
Once across this lava-glacier, and out of the dip formed by its bed, we
stood on a sort of self-contained ash-heap, and looked down that long
slope of Fuji which already lay below us.
Dimly through the faint floating veil of mist we could see all
the green earth bare and smooth, with a darker line of hills as a
child’s bank of mud curving round the black surface of the lakes. We
were so high up, the lakes so far away, and the whole air so heavy
with moisture that they looked in the misty light like polished
slabs of black rock dropped into the green earth as one might sink
stepping-stones into a lawn. As we watched the light seemed to thicken,
the white mists spread through it as motes in a sunbeam, gathered
themselves together. Swiftly they hid the black lakes; and boiling
within the dark curve of the hills in billows of smoke, boiled over the
mud-bank of hills, and blotting them out; submerged the green earth,
and flowing rapidly upwards hid all the long slope of Fuji beneath a
shoreless sea of fog.
Again we stood on a steep cinder-heap on the black rope which hung from
void to void--alone.
* * * * *
And impenetrable Fuji remained. We simply climbed a cinder-path which
ran from end to end of a never-ending, ever-retreating circle of cloud.
And still within this grey-white circle we reached the _Ni-gō_, or No.
2 station. Here we were to stop the night, because No. 2 is larger and
more comfortable than No. 4, and No. 8 was too far away.
No. 2 lay on the side of the path, its face looking over the precipice
and its three sides well within a scooped-out hole in the cinder-heap.
It was nothing but an ordinary Japanese room, only its walls were of
solid wood, protected outside by cut blocks of lava, and inside with a
lining of folded _futon_ on shelves. Far away in the back of the room
the charcoal fire was sunk in a sort of earth well, so that you could
sit on the matting with your legs in the hole, absorb warmth, or do
your cooking. Otherwise the tea-house was bare matted space on which
each comer staked out a claim for himself with his luggage.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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