to the hull of a boat, and acts as a keel. Test out well as a glider. Put more and less curve to bows, and experiment for poise of model. A small piece of tin on each side of the support will give a good bearing for the propeller shaft. The hole in the wood should be a trifle larger than the shaft. String is run from both ends of _d_ and _e_ to the front end of the framework but is not attached to _f_. [Illustration: FIG. 229.] When long models are made with single spine, they need some simple wire supports to prevent springing up or down, and from left to right. Fig. 229 is 4’ long and the spine is only ¼” × ¼” at the small end ¼” × ⅜” at the larger end. A little 1/16” oak veneer cut in strips 3/16” wide would be very serviceable for the purpose of support in trussing the long spine. It should stand 2” above and below the spine, and the same amount for the right and left brace, Fig. 230. The wires for these should extend about a foot on each side of these posts, and be attached to the spine with little tin anchors, as shown in Fig. 230, _a_. [Illustration: FIGS. 230, 231, 232.] The propeller shaft bearing is of metal and is lashed to the cross-piece, called the base, Fig. 231. It is not necessary to have two points of bearing for the shaft. The metal is about 1/16” × ¼” × 1”, bent as in Fig. 232, and lashed to the under side of the base. The planes are similar to those in the next model. 1” × 1½” × 7½” propeller blanks are used. Try about fourteen strands of 1/16” string rubber for each motor, seven rounds. [Illustration: FIG. 233.] =My favorite model aeroplane= is shown in Fig. 233. It had made some very pretty flights when it took a notion to glide into a young man’s bicycle as he was riding by. Well, there was no improvement on the aeroplane when the chain and spokes of the bicycle were thru with it. [Illustration: FIGS. 234, 235, 236, 237.]