The Abomination of desolation—Across Korea—The east
coast—Fishing and filth
The peace, piety, and sublime earnestness of the monks of the monasteries
of Yu-chom and Chang-an is in startling contrast to the state of things
at Shin-ki-sa. The magnificence of Yu-chom-sa, and the charitable
benevolence of Chang-an-sa, engender a mood of sympathetic appreciation
and toleration towards those, whose lives are dedicated to the service
of Buddha, in these isolated retreats of the Diamond Mountains. The
spectacle presented by the monastery at the north-eastern base of the
Keum-kang-san, however, reveals the existence of certain evils which
happily do not disfigure the more important Buddhist centres in this
region. It is not time which alone has brought about the disorder; nor
would the material decay be so lamentable if the dignity and charm of a
picturesque ruin were not lacking. The tone of the monks here is totally
different. Everything is neglected, and every one is indifferent to the
needs of the temples. A litter of broken tiles lies about the buildings;
dirt and dust, the natural consequences of carelessness and neglect,
disgrace them within. The spirit of reverence is wanting. The scene is
changed.
Shin-ki is a small monastery. Perhaps its temples have never been
comparable with the shrines of Yu-chom-sa in grace and beauty. Nothing,
however, can excuse the disorder and neglect of its court-yards, and the
slovenliness of the temple service. There seems to be nothing in common
between this and those other monasteries, which rest within the heart
of the ranges. One looks in vain for the courtly dignity of the aged
Abbot of Yu-chom-sa, whose humanitarian spirit was so impressive. The
principles of consideration, politeness, and devotion that govern his
conduct are sadly lacking in the Abbot, the priests, and monks attached
to Shin-ki-sa. The contrast is indeed great. The most painful emotions
are excited by the decline which has taken place in the prosperity of
the temples. Anger and sorrow fill the soul. As one gazes beyond the
temples into the peace and beauty of the valley below, it is as if one
were looking across from a place of abomination into another and a better
world. The colourless skeleton of the past alone remains, and one longs
for the power to restore the fabric to its former self.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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