In its setting the monastery has caught something of the spirit of
nature. If there is any compensating element in its decadence, it is
found in the wild beauty of the rugged mountains, which tower above it
from across the valley. Beyond their granite faces lie the trials and
tribulations of the outer world; once enclosed within their grey embrace
the little ironies of life disappear. The hours are cool and undisturbed.
Primeval forests adorn the deep gullies of the ranges; a flood of colour
comes from the open spaces where wild flowers are growing and the tints
of the woodland foliage disclose an endless variety of green. In the
centre of a patch, cleared of its undergrowth and approached by a path
winding through deep woods, is Mum-sa-am. This retreat is given over to
the twenty nuns who are associated with Shin-ki-sa. I know nothing of
their lives, but from the state of their temples, and the roughness and
disorder of their surroundings, it did not appear to me that they, any
more than the sixty priests, monks, and boys of the lower monastery, find
the tenets of Buddha very elevating, or derive much satisfaction from the
surrounding scenery.
[Illustration: SHIN-KI-SA]
The history of our days in the more important monasteries of the Diamond
Mountains was uneventful. The anxious care and solicitude of the monks
for the welfare of their guests was hourly manifested, and some kindly
attention was shown to us at every possible opportunity. Cool and lofty
quarters were allotted for our entertainment; the resources of the
monastery were placed at our disposal. The Abbot of Chang-an-sa prepared
draughts of honey-water and cakes of pine-seeds for our refreshment.
Every morning supplies of honey, rice, and flour, and small bundles of
fresh vegetables were brought to the table; throughout the day nothing
was left undone, which, in the minds of these simple men, would be
conducive to our comfort. A deep pool in the tumbling mountain-stream
was reserved for our use, and when, in the fresh air of the morning, and
again when the cool winds of the evening had tempered the heat of the
day, we went to bathe, the Abbot, upon his own initiative, arranged that
we should be left in undisturbed possession of the water-hole.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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