There are nine monasteries under the government of the island. Seven are
situated upon the island; the chief of these is the fortified monastery
of Chung-deung, the Temple of Histories, the sometime pillar of defence
of the Kingdom, thirty _li_ south of Kang-wha, famous as the scene of the
reverse suffered by the French troops in 1866. Mun-su-sa, standing upon
the mainland opposite, is included in this little colony of Buddhistic
retreats, as is another, upon the island of Ma-eum-to, called Po-mun-sa,
famous for the wildness of its scenery and for a natural rock temple in
the side of the hill upon which it stands. The monks of Chung-deung-sa
enjoyed military rank until quite recently. They were regarded as
soldiers in times of national distress; they received Government
allowances, food, and arms, in order to maintain them in a state of
efficiency. Buddhism has lost much of its hold upon the islanders,
although it existed before 1266. There is a branch of the English Mission
(Seoul) in Kang-wha, under the administration of the Rev. Mark Napier
Trollope, whose notes upon this island were presented in a paper which
their author read before the local branch of the Royal Asiatic Society
during my stay in Korea. They materially assisted me to collect the
interesting data from which these few paragraphs have been compiled.
I stayed five weeks in Kang-wha monastery, preparing the skeleton of this
present volume. Having gone there for a week at the outside, I found the
quiet and solitude of the spot such a sanctuary from trouble, and such
a panacea to the nerves, that I was loath to abandon it. After a few
days in the cramped confinement of the native junk which had conveyed me
from Chemulpo, delaying much _en route_, it was pleasant to stretch my
limbs again upon the shore. Landing one morning at daybreak, I fell upon
the unsuspecting guardian of the English Mission, Father Trollope, and
moved off at a later hour in the day across country to the monastery. The
monks were not at all disturbed by my intrusion. Although strangers are
not such frequent visitors to this monastery as to those in the Diamond
Mountains, their presence excites no comment, and they are allowed to
go their way with that kindly indifference to their existence which
is, under the circumstances, the height of courtesy. The Chief Abbot
was informed of my arrival, and, after a little explanation, ordered a
very airy building to be prepared for my reception. It was well raised
from the ground, and, situated just below the main courtyard, afforded
a magnificent view of the entire domain. In the distance I could see
the farm-lands of the island and the sparkle of the sunlight upon the
water; more within the picture, and quite near to my new home, were
two wells, a running stream, and a stretch of mountain slopes, cool,
fragrant, and overgrown with scrub and bush. Temples revealed themselves
in a sea of foliage, through which the drifting breezes played soft
music.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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