At one end of this Hall of Entertainment were placed the cooking
and eating paraphernalia, in the middle my camp-bed, and, overlooking
the landscape, an improvised writing table with my books and papers.
There was no element of unrest in the setting of my little camp. Every
morning the Chief Abbot welcomed me to the glories of another day; in
the evening we, through the medium of my interpreter, talked together
upon an amazing variety of subjects—Buddha and Christ, this world and the
next, Paris, London, America. Duties in the monastery would prevent these
new friends from coming on certain nights; but they always forewarned
me of their absence, never disturbing me at my work, never taking me
by surprise. The sense of consideration and courtesy which their kindly
hospitality displayed was manifested in countless ways. The small return
which it was possible to make quite shamed me before them. Frequently, at
midnight, when my lights were burning, the Abbot would walk across from
his own apartments and force me to bed with many smiles and much gentle
pressure, covering my manuscript with his hands and nodding towards my
camp-bed. There was no screen to the front of my building, so it was
always possible for them to observe the stranger within their gates.
This inspection was most quietly carried on; indeed, if I turned to the
open courtyard, those who, perhaps, had been noting the structure of
my camp-bed, or the contents of my valise, hanging to air upon a stout
rope, flitted away like ghosts. I was left, as I wished, in peaceful
contemplation of my work and the splendour of the scenery around me.
Catering arrangements were quite simple during my stay in this monastery.
Rice and eggs and fowls were procurable from the villages beyond the
walls of the temple, and rice-flour or vegetables could be procured from
the butterman of the monastery. It was my plan to take breakfast about
ten o’clock in the morning, and to dine about six o’clock in the evening.
Between these hours was my time for writing, and I was always fully
occupied. Before breakfast I walked abroad or prepared my notes of the
work for the day; after dinner I received my callers, arranging anything
of interest in my notes when they were gone. Usually I witnessed the
midnight gathering of the monks, listening, with pleasure, to the booming
of the great bell of the monastery and the accompanying peals of smaller
bells of less melodious volume and much shriller tone. The vibration in
the air, as these wonderful noises broke upon it, filled the high woods
with melody and the deep valleys with haunted strains as of spirit-music.
After the midnight mass, when the echoes had died away, the delight of
the moment was supreme. In utter weariness and most absolute contentment
I stretched myself to slumber beneath the protecting draperies of
the mosquito-curtains, within the vaulted spaciousness of my Hall of
Entertainment.
[Illustration: A DAY OF FESTIVAL]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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