It was deafening, the most penetrating discord of which I have ever been
the unfortunate auditor. With the conclusion of the exercises upon the
cymbals, which were beaten together in a wide, circular sweep of the
arms, then tossed aloft, caught, and clanged together after the fashion
of the South African native with his spear and shield, the performing
priest returned to the companion who relieved him. His more immediate
activities over, he stood aside laughing and talking with his colleagues
in a voice which quite drowned the chants in which his companions were
engaged. Then, panting with his late exertions, he proceeded to fan
himself with the most perfect unconcern, finally examining the hem of his
jacket for lice; his search repaying him, he returned to his seat upon
the floor and lifted up his voice with the others. After the sacrifices
and prayers had been offered before the main altar and those upon the
right and left, extra tables of fruit, apples, dates, nuts, cakes and
incense, together with the previous dishes of rice, cakes, incense and
bread, were spread before a small shrine placed in front of the screen.
Rice was piled into a bowl, and, while the other monks were laughing and
chattering among themselves in the temple itself during the progress of
the sacrifice, the two women approached the shrine and made obeisance
three times, then touching each dish with their fingers, bowed again and
retired to their corner. At the same time three priests, breaking from
the group that were talking by the doors of the building, sat down in
the centre of the temple upon their praying-mats, seven or eight feet
from the shrine. While one chanted Korean prayers from a roll of paper,
another struck and rang the brass bell repeatedly, and the third hammered
the gong. Throughout this part of the service the others chatted volubly,
until they, too, joined in a chorus and pæan of thanksgiving, breaking
off from that to chant, in low, suppressed tones, a not unimpressive
litany.
Repetitions of the services I have described continued all night.
Sometimes there was more noise, sometimes less, occasionally there was
none, the tired, quavering voices of the sleepy priests tremulously
chanting the requisite number of litanies. The women, who sat with
wide-opened eyes, watched with interest and were satisfied. The priests
seemed bored. Personally I was tired, dazed and stunned by the uproar.
During the progress of this strange service, I was struck by the utter
absence of that devotional fervour which was so characteristic of the
priests in the principal monasteries of the Diamond Mountains.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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