The service began with the customary calling for Buddha. The Abbot
tapped upon a bamboo cane; every one leant forward, their faces pressed
down, and their foreheads resting upon the floor. The palms of their
hands were extended beyond their heads in an attitude of reverence and
humility. This prostration was accompanied by the intoning of a Thibetan
chant, to the accompaniment of a brass gong, struck with a horn handle
by the Abbot himself. Further prostrations followed upon the part of the
entire assemblage, the women joining in this part of the service. For
the most part they squatted silently and reverently in their corner of
the temple. As the different services concluded the Abbot shifted the
offerings before the main altar to their appointed stations before the
smaller shrines, when the prayers proceeded afresh. Protracted overtures
were made to the picture of the Ten Judges, before which the service
apparently became fully choral. One priest danced amazing and grotesque
steps, strangely reminiscent of a Kaffir war-dance, the sole of one foot
striking the floor to the accompaniment of a clash of cymbals as the
other leapt into the air. Another priest played upon the cracked bell,
and a third kept up a dull, monotonous thumping on the drum. The sole
idea of the priests, as conveyed to my mind by their celebration, seemed
to be the breaking up of the solemn silence of the night by the most
amazing medley of noises. At intervals, in the course of the unmusical
colloquy between the drums, the cymbals, and the big bell, the monks
chanted their dirges, which were, in turn, punctuated by the dislocated
tapping of the Abbot’s brass bell and wooden knocker.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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