The house itself stands in the middle of this highest garden, above a
vine-covered flight of steps, with an arched doorway beneath that
leads to vast cellars hollowed out in the rock. All about the dwelling
trellised vines and pomegranate-trees (the _grenadiers_, which give the
name to the little close) are growing out in the open air. The front
of the house consists of two large windows on either side of a very
rustic-looking house door, and three dormer windows in the roof--a slate
roof with two gables, prodigiously high-pitched in proportion to the low
ground-floor. The house walls are washed with yellow color; and door,
and first-floor shutters, all the Venetian shutters of the attic
windows, all are painted green.
Entering the house, you find yourself in a little lobby with a crooked
staircase straight in front of you. It is a crazy wooden structure, the
spiral balusters are brown with age, and the steps themselves take a
new angle at every turn. The great old-fashioned paneled dining-room,
floored with square white tiles from Chateau-Regnault, is on your right;
to the left is the sitting-room, equally large, but here the walls
are not paneled; they have been covered instead with a saffron-colored
paper, bordered with green. The walnut-wood rafters are left visible,
and the intervening spaces filled with a kind of white plaster.
The first story consists of two large whitewashed bedrooms with stone
chimney-pieces, less elaborately carved than those in the rooms beneath.
Every door and window is on the south side of the house, save a single
door to the north, contrived behind the staircase to give access to the
vineyard. Against the western wall stands a supplementary timber-framed
structure, all the woodwork exposed to the weather being fledged with
slates, so that the walls are checkered with bluish lines. This shed
(for it is little more) is the kitchen of the establishment. You can
pass from it into the house without going outside; but, nevertheless,
it boasts an entrance door of its own, and a short flight of steps that
brings you to a deep well, and a very rustical-looking pump, half hidden
by water-plants and savin bushes and tall grasses. The kitchen is a
modern addition, proving beyond doubt that La Grenadiere was originally
nothing but a simple _vendangeoir_--a vintage-house belonging to
townsfolk in Tours, from which Saint-Cyr is separated by the vast
river-bed of the Loire. The owners only came over for the day for
a picnic, or at the vintage-time, sending provisions across in the
morning, and scarcely ever spent the night there except during the
grape harvest; but the English settled down on Touraine like a cloud of
locusts, and La Grenadiere must, of course, be completed if it was to
find tenants. Luckily, however, this recent appendage is hidden from
sight by the first two trees of a lime-tree avenue planted in a gully
below the vineyards.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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