Among these are Point d'Angleterre, called such for mistaken reasons only, as it is not point lace nor made in England; and Duchesse, a name of comparatively recent date, though the style itself is of earlier origin, and was called "Guipure facon Angleterre." As regards Brussels needle-point, the earliest made closely resembles that of Alencon, though not quite so close and firm. There were also other differences, both the "cordonnet" and the "reseau" being unlike those of Alencon. From the beginning of the nineteenth century Brussels needle-point underwent changes analogous to those of pillow lace; it became Point Applique, in which the needle-lace pattern, instead of having a true net ground, was appliqued on the machine-made net. But in recent years it has been noted that a return to the character of the earlier and more beautiful Brussels needle-point is being sought, the chief evidence of it being the exquisite Point Gaze, made entirely with the needle and grounded with its own "reseau." BUCKINGHAM.--A lace originally made in the county of Buckingham, England, and of two kinds: (a) Buckingham trolley lace, whose pattern is outlined with a thicker thread, or a flat, narrow border, made up of several such threads. The ground is usually a double ground, showing hexagonal and triangular meshes; (b) A lace with a point ground, with the pattern outlined with thicker threads, these threads being weighted by bobbins larger and heavier than the rest. In general character and design these laces strongly resemble those manufactured at Lille. CADIZ.--A variety of needle-point Brussels lace. {33} [Illustration: Imitation Marquise.] [Illustration: Real Point d'Angleterre.] {34} CARNIVAL.--A variety of reticella lace made in Italy, Spain and France during the sixteenth century. CARTISANE.--Guipure or passement, made with cartisane, which is vellum or parchment in thin strips or small rolls, covered with silk, gold thread or similar material. CHAIN.--A lace of the seventeenth century, consisting of a braid or passement so worked as to resemble chain links. It was made of colored silk, and also of gold and silver thread.