{48} IRISH.--A term denoting a variety of laces made in Ireland, of which
the two most individual and best-known kinds are the net embroideries of
Limerick and the applique and cut cambric work of Carrick-ma-cross. Other
varieties, which are imitations of foreign laces, are Irish point,
resembling Brussels lace; black and white Maltese; silver, black and white
blondes. The Limerick embroideries, for they cannot be strictly called
lace, are an imitation of Indian tambour work, and consist of fine
embroidery in chain-stitches upon a Nottingham net. Carrick-ma-cross, or
Irish guipure, is a kind of so-called Irish point lace, made at the town of
that name, but which is really nothing more than a species of embroidery,
from which part of the cloth is cut away, leaving a guipure ground. It is
not a very durable lace. The most popular patterns are the rose and the
shamrock. Irish crochet is an imitation of the needle-point laces of Spain
and Venice; that is to say, it resembles these laces in general effect.
There is also a needle-point lace made of rather coarse thread, and used
exclusively in Ireland and England. The manufacture of laces in Ireland is
carried on by the cottagers, by the nuns in the convents, and in several
industrial schools founded for that purpose. It has only become a popular
industry within the last twenty-five years, as the costumes of the people
in earlier times did not require lace ornamentation, and there was a
widespread and deep-rooted aversion to the adoption of English fashions in
clothing so long as certain sumptuary laws were unrepealed.
Afterward, under slightly more liberal conditions, English fashions were
gradually adopted, and with them came the demand for a cheap Irish lace, as
the foreign laces were too expensive. Not until 1743 was there any official
attempt to encourage the industry, but in that year the Royal Dublin
Society established prizes for excellence in lacemaking. This attempt
lasted until 1774. In 1829 a school was opened in Limerick for instruction
in the now celebrated lace or embroidery first made in that town; but in
the famine years of 1846-48 more effectual measures were taken to spread a
knowledge of the art, and several schools {49} were opened in different
parts of the country. The Irish have never made a lace that can in any
sense be called national, but great skill has been developed in the
imitations of the foreign fabrics, and the Irish name has been so closely
associated with some of them that they are popularly considered a native
Irish product. The exhibition of Irish laces at the Mansion House in London
in 1883 added materially to the reputation of these fabrics.
IRISH TRIMMING.--A plain-patterned, woven lace, formerly used in
ornamenting muslin underwear, pillow slips and the like.
JESUIT.--A modern needle-point lace, made in Ireland, and so called on
account of the tradition as to the introduction of its manufacture after
the famine of 1846.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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