The graceful Spanish headdress, the mantilla, has been chiefly made in the
province of Catalonia, out of black and white Blondes, but it is inferior
to a similar lace of French manufacture. The most celebrated of the Spanish
laces are the gold and silver fabrics, known as Point d'Espagne, the Blonde
laces and Spanish or Rose point. The first-named is a very old lace, was
known in Spain as early as the middle of the fifteenth century, and is made
with gold and silver threads, upon which a pattern is embroidered in
colored silk. The Blondes, which have been already mentioned, have thick
though graceful patterns upon a light net ground. Rose point is wholly made
with the needle and is very like Venetian point, being considered, in fact,
as a variety of the latter. The close resemblance is accounted for by the
fact that this kind of lace was made by the inmates of religious houses,
which were transferred from one country to another at the will of their
superior and carried with them the secret of a difficult art. The Rose
points, some of which are not raised, are formed with a pattern-worked net
in buttonhole stitches, the parts of the pattern being joined together by
brides. The raised Rose points are recognized by their thick cordonnet or
outlining of the pattern.
TAMBOUR.--Lace made with needle embroidery upon a machine-made net,
generally black or white Nottingham. It is chiefly made in Ireland and
commonly included among the Limerick laces.
{71}
[Illustration: Leavers's Lace Machine.]
{72} TAPE.--A lace made with the needle, except that a tape or narrow strip
of linen is wrought into the work and is the distinguishing feature of the
pattern. These plain or ornamented tapes or braids, arranged so as to form
the pattern, have always been peculiar to this kind of lace. The patterns
are connected together with either bride or net grounds. The earliest were
made with a bride ground and simple cloth stitch, but gradually very
elaborate designs were wrought as part of the braid-like patterns and
united by open-meshed grounds. In the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries
the braid and tape laces included the large majority of coarse pillow laces
made in Flanders, Spain and Italy.
THREAD.--Lace made from linen thread as distinguished from silk and cotton
laces. Black thread is a misnomer for Chantilly.
TORCHON.--A coarse pillow lace made of strong, soft and loosely twisted
thread. In Europe it is known also as "Beggars'" lace, and the old French
Gueuse lace was similar to Torchon. The patterns generally are very simple
and formed with a loose stout thread and the ground is coarse net. Torchon
is now also machine made.
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