The French Revolution practically destroyed lacemaking at Valenciennes, and
the industry was transferred to Belgium. The lace produced there was,
however, given the name of False Valenciennes. Alost, Bruges, Ypres, Ghent,
Menin and Courtrai became centers of the manufacture, and the lace made in
each town had a distinguishing {74} feature in the ground. For example, the
Ghent ground is square meshed, the bobbin being twisted two and one-half
times. At Ypres, the ground is square meshed, but the bobbins are twisted
four times. In Courtrai and Menin, the bobbins are twisted three and a half
times, and in Bruges three times. As an illustration of the fact that the
making of old Valenciennes is a lost art, it is interesting to note that
the last important piece of work executed within that town was a headdress
presented by the town to the Duchesse de Nemoms on her marriage in 1840.
The headdress was made by old women, the few real Valenciennes laceworkers
then surviving, with the praiseworthy and patriotic object of showing the
perfection of the product of former days. There are several machine-made
varieties of Valenciennes. English Valenciennes is chiefly made at
Nottingham; it is also called Platt and Normandy Valenciennes. It is an
imitation of the early hand-made lace, to the extent of having a similar
diamond-meshed ground. Its pattern is without relief, and the threads of
which it is made are no heavier than the ground. French Valenciennes is
made mostly at Calais. Its pattern is usually outlined by a stouter thread
than that forming the ground, and it has a finer finish and softer "feel"
than the English Valenciennes; in fact, it is an excellent imitation of the
real. Italian Valenciennes is a narrow, fine-threaded lace, used for
trimming fine underwear.
{75}
[Illustration: Schiffli or Power Embroidering Machine.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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