In hand-made lace the two principal classes are the needle-point and
bobbin, or pillow-made, lace. Needle-point lace is worked upon loose
threads laid upon a previously drawn pattern, but which have no point of
contact with one another and no coherency until the needlework binds them
together. This work is done with a needle and single thread. As we have
said, the pattern is first drawn, usually upon parchment; a piece of heavy
linen is stitched to the parchment for the purpose of holding it straight;
then threads to the number of two, three, four, or more, are laid along the
many lines of the pattern, and sewed lightly down through parchment and
linen. The entire figure is then carried out, both solid filling and
openwork, with fine stitching, the buttonhole stitch being most generally
employed.
{7}
[Illustration: Real Duchesse and Point Gaze.]
[Illustration: Real Carrick-ma-Cross.]
{8} Bobbin, or pillow-made, lace is the highest artistic development of
twisted and plaited threads. It is made from a large number of threads
attached by means of pins to an oval-shaped cushion or pillow, each thread
being wound upon a small bobbin. The design, as in the making of
needle-point lace, is first drawn on stiff paper or parchment, and
carefully stretched over the pillow. Then the pattern is pricked out along
the outline of the drawing and small pins are introduced at close
intervals, around which the threads work to form the various meshes and
openings. From right to left the thread is bound lightly upon the bobbins
and tied at the top of each in a loop that permits it gradually to slip off
the bobbin when gently pulled, as occurs generally when working.
The worker begins by interlacing the bobbins, which are used in pairs,
placing small pins in all perforations, and crossing the bobbins after the
insertion of each pin. Around these pins the design is formed, the threads
being crossed and recrossed and passed under and over each other with
remarkable rapidity and accuracy. When the whole width of the large piece
of lace is carried on together the number of bobbins and pins is very great
and the work highly expensive, but it is customary to work each sprig
separately, these being joined together in the form of a strip afterward by
means of a curious loop-stitch, made by a hook called a needle-pin.
Scarcely had lace been invented before it had assumed almost priceless
value, and it is worth while remarking here that though centuries have
since elapsed, the value of these delicate, hand-wrought fabrics has not in
any sense diminished. Throughout the sixteenth, seventeenth, eighteenth and
nineteenth centuries rare lace of beautiful pattern has been highly prized,
some of the earliest specimens, in the possession of world-famous libraries
and museums, being of relatively fabulous wealth.
{9}
[Illustration: Real Irish Point.]
[Illustration: Real Valenciennes.]
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