One of the most interesting facts concerning the development of lace has to
do with the patterns produced in the various localities of Europe. In the
beginning the number of designs was necessarily limited, but as the
industry developed and spread, and as the workers became more expert and
artistic, there was an uncontrollable impulse to break away from
conventional designs and to evolve new patterns. Then, too, there was
something of the spirit of pride behind this movement--a sort of local
patriotism, if it may so be termed. The Belgian, the Spaniard and the
Frenchman were not content slavishly to imitate Italian designs, and,
anxious to win a name for themselves, set about to produce new effects that
would immediately identify them with the place of their origin.
Thus it was, too, that various cities and towns in Italy, France, Belgium,
Spain and elsewhere sought to establish for themselves an individual
product of great excellence that would give to the city or town prestige
and renown in the then few commercial marts of the world. This explains the
various names which were given to distinct {12} types of laces hundreds of
years ago, and which designations still obtain, as, for instance, Alencon,
Valenciennes, Chantilly, Honiton, Arras, Bayeux, Genoa, Florence, etc.
Another fact worthy of record is that of all the almost numberless designs
that have been given to the world since the birth of lace there have been
some one or two characteristics that tell as plainly as though expressed in
words that each one of these designs was made at some particular period of
history. It is well that this is so, for it has enabled the historian to
trace, with more or less certainty, the development of the industry. In
other words, a lace expert is enabled to tell from the fabric not only in
what country it was made, but in what part of that country, and also the
approximate date.
In the self-sufficiency of the present age we are apt to regard with a sort
of supercilious disdain any story reflecting upon the supremacy of our
forebears in any of the arts or the sciences; but that we cannot make, in a
commercial way, such lace as was woven in the sixteenth and seventeenth
centuries is beyond question. In the first place, time is lacking, and if
it must be confessed, the great skill that comes only through years of
constant practice is also lacking.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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