In 1777 Else and Harvey introduced at Nottingham the pin or point net
machine, so named because made on sharp pins or points. Point net was
followed by various other stitches of a lacelike character, but despite the
progress made, all efforts at producing a solid net were futile. It was
still nothing more than knitting, a single thread passing from one end of
the frame to the other, and if a thread broke the work was unraveled. This
was overcome in a measure by gumming the threads, giving the fabric a
solidity and body not possible without resorting to some artificial method
of this sort.
The great problem inspired the efforts of numberless inventors, and many
attempts were made to combine the mechanism used respectively by the
knitter and the weaver, and after many failures a machine was produced
which made Mechlin net.
There are few histories bearing upon the invention of labor-saving devices
that are so replete with the records of failure as is the history of the
attempt to produce a practical lace machine. John Heathcoat, of
Leicestershire, England, was the inventor of the machine for making bobbin
net. His patents were taken out in 1809, and to him must be accorded the
credit of solving for the first time the problem that had vexed the minds
of so many inventors and had depleted the purses of so many capitalists.
The bobbin net machine, so named because the threads are wound upon
bobbins, first produced a net about an inch in width, afterward, however,
producing it a yard wide.
It was the application of the celebrated Jacquard attachment to the lace
machine that has made possible the duplication of practically every pattern
of lace made by hand. The machine of Heathcoat was vastly improved by John
Leavers, also of Nottingham, and the types produced by him are still in use
throughout England and France, though, of course, there are in these days a
large number of different {16} types of machines bearing different names,
but the principle of the Leavers machine, more or less modified, obtains in
practically all of the devices. Therefore a description of the process of
lacemaking by the Leavers frame will serve as a description for all.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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