Ladies' old-fashioned shoesGreig, T. Watson (Thomas Watson)
History
Ladies' old-fashioned shoes
Greig, T. Watson (Thomas Watson)
Women's shoes -- History; Women's shoes -- History -- Pictorial works
The four oldest examples of European foot-gear at Cluny are boots and
shoes worn by the _bourgeoisie_, or poorer classes. A Flemish shoe
depicted in the third illustration (24) belongs to the Sixteenth
Century. It was found in the storehouses of the hospital at Ghent, and
dates from 1530. It affords an example of the foot-gear worn by the
martyrs of religious liberty and social equality in the great struggle
of which Motley has recounted the partial victory. Perhaps one of the
most curious examples of foot-gear is a carefully made specimen of
German shoe of the Sixteenth Century (27). The toe seems intended as an
emphatic protest against the long peaks; it is in the fashion of a
turnover, and spreads out on both sides far beyond the width of the
foot. The outside is stamped with a lozenge pattern, the inside with
flowers and threads. From two specimens at Cluny (28 and 29), it would
seem as if the broad-toed German shoe ran at times into the
extravagances of the pointed shoe. The wear numbered 28 appears at Cluny
in two materials: in leather and in wood. In a previous reference to
this extraordinary shoe, I suggested that it was perhaps only a
bootmaker’s freak; but I have since met with a shoe similarly shaped,
minus the heel, on the foot of a German court-jester of the Sixteenth
Century. The other quaintness (29) is dated 1752, and is said to be
Flemish. The heel and hind-quarters are of the same fashion as the
foot-gear of the time of the Regency in France; the extraordinary
elongation is in harmony with the tendency of the fashion of the middle
of the last century, but is too extreme to permit us to believe that it
was made for serious wear. A still older specimen (30) is a little
German shoe of the first half of the Sixteenth Century, which proves
that the _chaussure à poulaine_ had not then died out in Germany. The
beak rises and curves backward; the ankle is adorned with an engraved
copper ring. This prepares us for the oldest specimen of all (31), a
_chaussure à poulaine_ of the Fifteenth Century, of which nothing
remains but the sole and the heel leather. This shoe, of which the
hinder part is made of red morocco, may be completed from a figure given
in Fairholt’s “Book of Costume” (p. 450), depicting one of the
“long-peaked shoon” found in a mediæval rubbish-heap upon which some
excavators came while digging deep in Whitefriars. This, with the
exception of the long toe, was very like the cloth boots lacing at the
sides which ladies wore not many years ago.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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