Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished ProductAdcock, K. J.
History
Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product
Adcock, K. J.
Leather
The action of acids in swelling gelatine is sometimes abused,
particularly on the Continent and in America. As pointed out before,
tan liquors must be mildly acid in character before the process can
proceed, and, if the organic acids of the tanning materials are
insufficient, the addition of a small quantity of formic, or lactic,
or acetic acid is necessary; but, in many of the American acid
tannages, an excessive quantity of mineral acid is used, with the
object of swelling the hides. When in this condition, they rapidly
absorb an abnormal quantity of tannin, and the finished leather is
unnaturally thick. To make matters worse, the tannage is sometimes
not completed, but, instead, the hides are treated ("doped") with
hygroscopic chemicals, which not only increase the weight of the
leather but also endanger the health of those who have to wear
it. Most of the American tanneries make no secret of their use of
these unnecessary chemicals, but assert that they are obliged to
use them in order to meet competition, and because a large number
of bootmakers insist on buying sole leather at a low price per lb.
The Leather and Paper Department of the U.S.A. Bureau of Industry
analysed several American leathers in 1913 and found that a large
majority were artificially weighted with glucose and Epsom salts
(magnesium sulphate). Barium compounds are also used for the same
purpose, but the American tannages are apparently free of this
adulterant. The results were published in a pamphlet by the United
States Government, together with a list of the firms whose leathers
were tested.
While the European tanners do not weight their leather so freely as
the Americans with these chemicals, the practice of swelling the
hides unduly is not unknown, with the difference that, especially
on the Continent, the swollen fibres are fixed by treating the
hides with a weak solution of formaldehyde, which also acts as a
preliminary tanning agent. The tannage can then be rapidly completed
with fairly strong extracts, as the formaldehyde prevents the
contraction of the grain which would ensue if untreated raw pelts
were placed in strong tan liquor. The acid-formaldehyde process is
risky, and cannot be recommended. The use of the artificial tannin,
neradol, has replaced it in many Continental sole-leather tanneries.
A preliminary tannage with neradol forms a good mordant for the use
of the strong extracts.
[Illustration: FIG. 26
PINNING SOLE BUTTS]
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