Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished ProductAdcock, K. J.
History
Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product
Adcock, K. J.
Leather
Whatever the method used to improve or depreciate the natural
tannage, the surplus material left on the surface is raised or
brushed off, and, after the leather has been left to drain for a
few hours, it is sent to the finishing department, which is usually
the drying shed. There, it is left piled up for a day or two, until
it is in the right condition for oiling. The leather must be oiled,
otherwise the grain would be harsh and brittle when dry, and would
darken in colour, especially at the edges. Cod oil is generally used,
and sometimes a little mineral oil is added to it to prevent possible
impurities in the fish oil rising to the surface of the leather or
causing damage in other ways. A cod oil purified by distillation
would, however, be quite safe to use, and there seems to be no
reason why tanners should use crude oils so frequently as they do,
now that a large number of oils specially prepared for the leather
trade are available. Linseed oil is also used in admixture with cod
oil, its oxidising properties hastening the process of drying. The
leather is liberally oiled with a brush or swab on the grain side and
immediately hung up in the drying shed, where it is left until it
reaches what is technically known as a "sammed" condition (_i.e._,
just damp enough to exude no water when the leather is doubled over).
It is then struck out ("pinned") on the grain side, either with a
hand tool (Fig. 26) or by machine. In the former case, the leather
is placed on a long wooden beam and the pinner works from the left
side, keeping two of the three edges of his knife flat on the leather
while making heavy forward strokes. As the scum is worked out, the
operator mops it up with a wet cloth. Machinery has replaced hand
labour in this operation in all modern tanneries. The pressure of
the tool removes scud and dirt, varying in quantity according to the
amount of "bloom" contained in the particular tanning materials
used. The leather is then laid in pile for a few hours, when it is in
a fit condition for the first rolling, which is known in the trade as
"rolling on." This operation is generally done by machine (Fig. 27)
nowadays, but the old method of using a hand roller heavily weighted
with an iron box (Fig. 28) is still practised in a few yards. After
rolling, the leather is hung up again until nearly dry, when it is
taken down and sized with a weak colouring matter, made up of annatto
or tumeric, with chalk or whitening dissolved in white vinegar
(acetic acid) and diluted. It is then rolled again ("rolling off")
and polished with a piece of flannel. Finally, it is hung up to air
off, and is then ready for the warehouse.
[Illustration: FIG. 27
ROLLING MACHINE]
In many yards the finishing consists merely in striking out the
leather, rolling it when properly tempered, hanging up until nearly
dry, and re-rolling. An American machine for giving the final polish
to sole leather has lately been introduced.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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