Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished ProductAdcock, K. J.
History
Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product
Adcock, K. J.
Leather
32) or by machine, the operation
being known technically as "striking out." The machine (Fig. 34)
gives quite satisfactory results and has replaced hand labour in all
modern works. The hides are then "strained" (_i.e._, extended and
nailed to wooden frames), or they are simply hung up to dry. In the
latter case, there is a small shrinkage of the size of the hide, but
the substance is maintained. With good straining, a satisfactory
increase of surface measurement can be obtained.
[Illustration: FIG. 32
SLEEKER]
When the leather is completely dried, it may be sold at once, but
if, as is generally the case, a special "nap" finish is required on
the flesh side, the hides are placed in damped deal sawdust until
they are in the right condition of flexibility for the next process,
known as "fluffing." This is done on a rapidly revolving wheel (Fig.
33) covered with emery powder varying in the size of grain according
to the effect desired on the finished leather. The abrasion of the
leather on the flesh (_i.e._, the under side) raises a soft nap.
Carborundum, a special abrasive made in America, by the fusion of
sand, coke, and salt at a very high temperature, has to some extent
supplanted the use of emery. As a final finish, the flesh side may
be rubbed over with chalk or china clay to give it a clear saleable
appearance.
[Illustration: FIG. 33
FLUFFING MACHINE]
The chrome sole leather used for ordinary boots is quite a different
product, and it is only in the last two or three years that it has
been used to any extent. The "Dri-ped" is the best known make of
this leather. The tannage is effected by the one or two-bath methods
already described. The processes preparatory to chroming are very
important, as it is essential to get the maximum yield of pelt. The
hides are, therefore, often treated with sulphide of sodium, which
loosens the hair in twenty-four hours or less. They are then placed
in fairly strong limes for two or three days to swell the fibres and
saponify the grease. After being washed in cold water, the hides are
treated with a weak solution of lactic, boracic, or butyric acid,
or butyrate of ammonia, to remove all trace of lime, when they are
ready to be chrome-tanned. After chroming them, neutralisation of
the acid chrome salts is effected with borax, and the leather is
ready for dressing. The principal objects of this process are to
make the leather firm and waterproof, and to remedy its tendency
to slip easily on wet pavements. The last-named is the greatest
difficulty, and there are only about two or three firms who have
really surmounted it. Each manufacturer keeps his recipe secret, but
the ingredients that go to make the various dressings are drawn from
the following: Stearines, mineral oil, Tragasol, resin, carnauba
wax, beeswax, paraffin wax, glue. Resin, or asphalt, or both, may be
used to prevent the leather slipping in contact with a wet pavement.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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