Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished ProductAdcock, K. J.
History
Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product
Adcock, K. J.
Leather
The number of materials that may be used for the process of
fat-liquoring is almost legion, but the principal are soaps, oils,
egg-yolk, tallow, flour, Tragasol, Irish moss, china clay, and
starch. Unless the special preparations made by leather trade
chemical firms be used, much care has to be exercised in selecting
the most suitable ingredients for each class of leather. For example,
the mixture that would give good results on vegetable-tanned leather
might be quite unsuitable for chrome leather. Then, again, the
selection of material is based on the style of finish required, a
dull finish necessitating heavy fats and greases which would be
quite unsuitable for bright leathers, and particularly for those of
the chrome-tannage. Among the hundreds of recipes that have been
published from time to time, tallow has only found a place in one or
two mixtures, yet it is one of the finest materials for strengthening
and lubricating the fibres of leather. If its splendid properties
were fully known, it would be very largely used for fat-liquoring
purposes. Of course, it is well known to the currying trade, having
for several centuries formed the basis, together with cod oil, of the
dubbin used in stuffing waxed leather and belting butts.
The following is a useful recipe for a fat-liquor for box calf: 2 lb.
Marseilles soap and 3 lb. neatsfoot oil for every 100 lb. of leather.
The soap is cut into small pieces and dissolved in hot water, and
the oil is added slowly and thoroughly mixed by stirring vigorously.
Where possible, emulsification should be done in a machine, in order
to atomise the ingredients. The finer they can be brought into a
state of division, the better they will be absorbed by the leather.
Other suitable fat-liquors for box leathers are the following: (1)
Turkey red oil, 2 per cent. of weight of leather and neutral soap 1
per cent.: (2) neatsfoot oil, 2 lb.; tallow, 1 lb.; and Tragasol,
1 lb.: (3) cod oil, 2 lbs.; Marseilles soap, 1 lb.: (4) neatsfoot
oil, 2 lbs.; egg-yolk, 1/2 lb., or six fresh yolks. The process is
completed in 20-30 minutes.
In the case of fancy colours or browns, the leather should generally
be well-drained and warmed up again in the drum in hot water (170°
F.) before fat-liquoring, but the precaution is unnecessary for
black leathers. After the fat-liquoring process, the leather is
removed from the drum, and piled up on the horse to drain, and left
for several hours or overnight, to allow it to assimilate the fatty
ingredients. It is then submitted to an operation known as sleeking
or striking out, with the object of removing surplus water and so
facilitating drying, and making the grain side smooth. Machinery is
now almost universally employed, especially for chrome leather. A
good type of striking out machine is shown in Figure 34.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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