Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished ProductAdcock, K. J.
History
Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product
Adcock, K. J.
Leather
When properly "seasoned," the skins are brushed free of the sawdust
and "staked," either by hand or machine, usually by the latter
means. The staking knife may be fixed in a wood crutch (arm stake),
or fixed upright in a vertical wooden stand (knee stake). In the
former case, the skins to be staked must be secured in a horizontal
wooden groove fixed to two uprights, the workman then pressing
heavily in a downward direction with the staking knife, of which the
crutch is held under the armpit. In using the upright stake, the
leather is moved to and fro over the edge of the fixed knife. Both
of these manual operations are arduous and somewhat dangerous, and
should be displaced by machinery wherever possible (Fig. 36).
[Illustration: FIG. 36
STAKING AND GLAZING MACHINE]
The thoroughly softened leather is then dried, mordanted with a
solution of logwood, or haematin crystals, blacked with levant ink,
a specially prepared black dye, or with a suitable aniline dye, and
dried again. It is finally seasoned with a glutinous or albuminous
mixture (blood albumen, milk, and a little aniline black dye make a
good mixture), dried, glazed, seasoned a second time, and reglazed.
A light coating of mineral oil turns the finish into a jet black,
and the leather is ready for the warehouse. There are several types
of glazing machines, but the "grasshopper" (so called owing to its
action) is the most popular for box calf. This machine is the same as
shown in Figure 36, except that the working tool is replaced with a
smooth glass or agate roller.
The term "box" applied to this leather was invented by a prominent
American tanner, and had he registered the name and patented his
process he would have reaped a very rich harvest, for the leather
is used in enormous quantities throughout the world. As it was, the
American firm tried to obtain an injunction against English firms
manufacturing the leather, but had to withdraw their claim, as they
were not the inventors of chrome leather, which was made in Scotland
before it was introduced to the States. Moreover, the word "box," as
applied to leather, was not registered in the United Kingdom.
Willow calf is exactly the same kind of leather as box calf, except
that it is dyed brown instead of black. The seasoning mixture
naturally differs and may consist of a mixture of egg albumen, milk,
and a little of the same, or similar, dye solution as that used in
the dyeing process. In order to get clear colouring, the dyes should
be well dissolved and strained through fine muslin.
CHAMOIS LEATHER
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