Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished ProductAdcock, K. J.
History
Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product
Adcock, K. J.
Leather
This kind of leather is well known to the general public under the
name of wash-leather, but it is, perhaps, not so widely known that
there is practically no real chamois leather available, since the
species of animal bearing this name is almost extinct. Nowadays,
"chamois," or "shamoy" is made from the flesh split of sheep skin,
and the method whereby the leather is produced is described as the
oil tannage. The chamois leather dresser may also do the preliminary
work of fellmongering, but more often he receives the pelts, or
"fells," from the fellmonger. Although the pelts have been in a lime
liquor known as the fellmonger's "gathering limes," the process of
liming has to be continued and carefully regulated. Too much liming
makes the pelts loose, owing to the development of bacteria. This
effect would cause the finished leather to be soft and spongy. On the
other hand, under-liming fails to remove sufficient of the cement
substance which binds the fibres of the pelts; consequently, the
leather produced from these pelts is thin and somewhat gristly. After
being limed, the skins are "cobbed" (_i.e._, the bits of wool or hair
left on by the fellmonger are removed) and the pelts are then fleshed
by machinery. The next operation, splitting, is very important and
requires skilful attention to get good results. The Reeder machine
is largely in use, but the band-knife machine is also suitable. The
top half of the sheep skin (_i.e._, the grain side) is utilised for
the manufacture of skivers, while the under portion, or flesh side,
technically called "lining," serves as the raw material for chamois
leather. The best linings are generally sorted out for making into
parchment, which, of course, commands a much higher price than
chamois. Linings for chamois are then submitted to the operation of
either re-splitting or frizing, the object being to remove the loose
tissue lying between the grain and flesh. The pelts are re-split in
the case of cheap chamois, but frized if intended for choice finish.
Frizing is an operation peculiar to the making of chamois and glove
leather. It is done with a very sharp knife, similar to the fleshing
knife, and on a more upright beam than that used by tanners. The work
requires great skill, frizers being among the best paid workers in
the trade. Frizing done, the linings are freed from lime by washing
them in the drum tumbler, or paddle-vat, through which cold water is
allowed to flow continuously for two or three hours. When lamb skins,
which are too thin to split, are made into chamois leather, the grain
is removed by frizing.
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