Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished ProductAdcock, K. J.
History
Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product
Adcock, K. J.
Leather
GLOVING LEATHER
Progress in the art of making leather for gloves has been rapid
during the last few years; but further important developments are
expected, particularly in the process of tanning. Practically the
only method that has been used for many decades for converting kid,
lamb, and sheep skins into gloving leather is that known technically
as "tawing," which consists of treating skins with alum, salt,
egg-yolk, flour, and a vegetable oil. These substances change skins
into extremely supple and "stretchy" leather, but when this is
made into gloves it is far from ideal in wear, because it fails
to keep the hands warm in cold, wet weather, it is easily soiled
and cannot be cleaned without great expense, and it is not very
strong in texture. Combination tannages have lately been produced,
however, which remove the defects of alumed leather. By means of a
light chrome tannage after tawing, the leather is strengthened and
made more resistant to water, and can be cleaned with a damp rag
or sponge. By tanning skins with the formaldehyde process, or with
Neradol, the artificial tannin, for making into suède leather, the
finished article is not only washable but also resists the action
of alkalies and soap. The adaptation of combined tannages in the
manufacture of gloving leathers has only lately been developed, and
further improvements will doubtless be effected before long.
Lamb, kid, goat, and sheep skins constitute the raw material for
gloving leathers, although deer and antelope skins are also used
to a small extent. Real kid skins are the best wearing dress
gloves, but the great majority of so-called "kid" gloves are made
of lamb skins. The raw kid and lamb skins are chiefly of European,
Arabian, and Indian origin. Sheep skins from the Cape provide the
raw material for a large number of men's gloves, and leather of
very good quality can be produced from the best grades. Most of the
skins are preserved by drying, or by salting and drying, although
some kid skins are wet-salted and packed in barrels for export. It
would save leather-dressers a great deal of trouble if they could
always get wet-salted skins; but the object of drying them is to
reduce the weight and lower the cost of freight. Soaking is done by
methods already described (p. 65). Loose flesh and pieces of fat
are cut off in order to facilitate the action of the depilitant,
of which the best for glove leather is undoubtedly a paste of lime
and red arsenic. Seven or eight parts of lime to one of arsenic is
a satisfactory proportion, the quantities to be mixed depending on
the number of skins to be treated, as a fresh mixture should be made
for each lot, or "pack" as the tanner terms it. The lime should be
well broken up, or, better still, pure powdered lime should be used
and the red arsenic well mixed with it; a little water is then added
to slake the lime gradually, and the mixture is stirred to promote
chemical reaction. The compound is further diluted with water until
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