Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished ProductAdcock, K. J.
History
Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product
Adcock, K. J.
Leather
Chamois leather has been largely used for gloves of late years,
but this leather has the defect, in common with suède leathers,
of getting soiled much more quickly than grain leathers, such as
kid, lamb, or Cape sheep. Nevertheless, suède and chamois gloves
are likely to remain fashionable to a more or less extent. The
manufacture of chamois leather is described on page 144. Sun-bleached
skins are the best for dyeing, especially if delicate shades are
wanted. The frontispiece shows a field covered with skins bleaching
in the sun. Chemically bleached leather is likely to become
discoloured after dyeing. Defective skins are often dyed with
pigments (dust colours), and this system is also applied to skins
which have to be dyed such delicate shades as cannot be produced by
wood or aniline colours. Although it gives attractive results to the
eye, and certainly covers up any defects of the grain, this method
of dyeing is not altogether satisfactory, as the leather remains
unpleasantly dusty in wear for quite a long time.
The dyeing of chamois with wood-dyes or coal-tar colours is by no
means easy, but this method gives the best results when successful.
The grease must first be removed from the leather with a solution of
5 lb. of borax or 3-1/2 lb. of soda for every 100 lb. of leather.
If the leather is still greasy on the surface, a further quantity
of soda or borax is given, after which the leather is well washed
in warm water, sumached, rinsed to remove the particles of sumach,
and mordanted with titanium salts. The dyeing is then done with
anilines or wood-dyes, or a combination of both, and this is followed
by fat-liquoring with egg-yolk and a sulphonated oil. The finishing
operations are staking and fluffing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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