Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished ProductAdcock, K. J.
History
Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product
Adcock, K. J.
Leather
terra japonica, and golden tan bark.
Light and medium brown can be obtained from these dye-woods without
the aid of aniline colours; but for dark shades, and to increase the
brilliancy of other colours, a top dye or coal-tar dye is often given.
The natural dyes are further developed with "strikers," which mainly
consist of metallic salts. Iron, copper, and zinc sulphates, nitrate
and acetate of iron, bichromate of potash, and titanium salts
(titanium lactate, titanium potassium oxalate, and tanno-titanium
oxalate) are the most important. The lactate, sold commercially under
the name of "corichrome," is especially suitable, as, unlike the
mineral acid salts, especially the sulphates, it has no destructive
effect on the fibres of the leather.
Dye-woods are now concentrated in the form of a paste, or dry
extract, the latter being the more reliable. They are also very
convenient to use and dissolve, while mixtures are, of course,
easily prepared. A good tan shade on Cape sheep can be obtained by
mordanting the leather with a solution of 1 lb. of bichromate of
potash for every 100 lb. of leather, drumming it in 8-9 lb. of pure
gambier, and then with a mixture of cuba wood extract, 1 lb.; fustic
extract, 3/4 lb.; Brazil wood extract, 1/2 lb.; and logwood extract,
1/2 oz. After drumming the leather in this dye liquor for about an
hour, the colour is developed with corichrome. If a darker shade be
required, the leather can be treated with a suitable basic dye. After
dyeing the leather, some dressers only fat-liquor it with egg-yolk
and a small quantity of olive oil, while others prefer to re-dress it
with a similar mixture to that used for tawing, namely, alum, salt,
egg-yolk, and flour; but, where titanium salts are used, the latter
method is not essential, because titanium has tanning properties.
When dry, the leather is ready for finishing, but it is advisable to
keep it in store for a few days before packing it in damp sawdust or
sprinkling it with water to prepare it for the operation of staking.
Anything more unlike leather would be difficult to imagine at this
stage, but, after stretching the skin in the staking machine, or by
drawing it over the upright stake, the dry, stiff, and shrivelled
leather is reduced to a very supple condition. The flesh side of the
leather is then pared with the moon-knife, or in the shaving machine,
to equalise the thickness. In some works, a special tool which pares
the leather on a flat table is preferred; this particular operation
is called "doling." The flesh side is finished by fluffing it on the
emery or carborundum wheel (Fig. 33). Finally, the grain is brushed
and polished with the glass sleeker, or ironed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account