Leaves from the Diary of an Impressionist: Early WritingsHearn, Lafcadio
General
Leaves from the Diary of an Impressionist: Early Writings
Hearn, Lafcadio
Literature
Across the Floridian barrens to the sea,-a long night and a longer
day of steam-travel over light powdery soil, the tint of hour-glass
sand, whose dust filters like a ruddy fog through the joints of the
double-windows and tightly-fitting doors of the sleeping-car; furious
travel through wildernesses of yellow pine, whose naked and mastlike
stems forever twinklingly intercross before one's tired eyes with the
rapidity of lightning. The smoke of the engine descends to mingle with
the low hanging cloud of ruddy dust; the sun, which rose in advance of
us, is now behind us, but there is yet no variation in the monotony of
the woods. Sometimes the train halts at a rustic station,--buildings of
painted pine relieved against the endless background of living trees;
the smoke floats off slowly through the heavy afternoon; the red dust
settles lazily; and one rushes to the platform to snatch a breath of
purer air, and to peer expectantly westward. Still nothing;--only
the colonnades of pine filing away eternally to right and left, and
the lurid road stretching endlessly backward and onward with its two
streaks of iron light converging toward either horizon,--and the voice
of a bird in some green hiding-place, breaking the hot stillness with
plaintive triple cry of 'Sweet!--sweet!--sweet!'--repeated over and
over again at drowsy intervals. Never a variation in the frondescence,
never a flower; the melancholy of the land has begun to weigh upon you
like a pain. Our city minds, our city eyes, accustomed to the relief
of contrast, are tormented by creations of such perpetual sameness, of
such enormous monotony, of such never-varying beauty as Nature devises
in her own solitudes. These shadowy infinitudes do not seem formed for
the gaze of the nineteenth century; their boundless uniformity rather
inspires dreams of those coniferous growths which burdened the land
in ages preceding the apparition of man,--when there were yet neither
blossoms nor perfumes, neither saccharine secretions nor succulent
fruits,--ere even the hum of honey-loving insects was heard, or the
beauty of butterflies had been formed, or the nations of the ants had
yet begun to toil,--and all the earth was green.
Then a scream of steam, a mighty jolt; and the thunder-rattle
recommences, and the train again begins to rock in mad storms of dust
and smoke, and the red sun ignites a stupendous conflagration behind
the pillars of the pines. At last, under the moon, there is another
shriek of steam; the wheels slacken, rumble jerkingly, then roll
slowly and silently, as if muffled, with occasional squeak, and pause
with a final shock; while through hastily opened windows and doors, a
strong cool air dashes in,--the breath of the great St. Johns River,
sweetened by mingling with the mightier breath of the sea, and bearing
with it scent of orange flowers and odors of magnolia.
And in the purple night, under the palpitation of stars, Jacksonville
opens all her electric eyes.
_May_ 4, 188-
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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