Leaves from the Diary of an Impressionist: Early WritingsHearn, Lafcadio
General
Leaves from the Diary of an Impressionist: Early Writings
Hearn, Lafcadio
Literature
sheltering a population of servants and clients large as that comprised
in the Roman _familia_, are now for the most part in a state of
decay. There is much crumbling of wood-work, looseness of jointing,
ulcerous exposure of the brick skeleton where plaster has rotted away
in patches from piazza pillars and from the ribs of archways. Grass
struggles up between the flagging; microscopic fungi patch the wall
surfaces with sickly green. The semi-tropical forces of nature in the
South are mighty to destroy the work of man. Dismally romantic is
the Greek front upon Toulouse Street, in rear of the old Hôtel Saint
Louis, and once famous as 'The Planters' Bank.' Through cracks in the
high board fence erected about its desolation one may see the weeds
squeezing their way through the joints of its broad stone steps, the
green creepers wriggling round its columns, and bushes actually growing
from the angles of its pediment--a vegetation planted, doubtless, by
birds. This ruin has a veritable classic dignity--a melancholy that
is antique. Sorrowful likewise are the voiceless courts of the once
beautiful French hotel, with their void galleries above and dried-up
fountains below. Millions upon millions have changed hands within that
building; princely revels were held there of old by the feudal lords of
Louisiana; the splendors of the past linger in the tarnished gilding
and dying colors of the lofty apartments, and in the decorations of the
porcelain dome frescoed by Casanova.
Many of the French and Spanish dwellings are as full of architectural
mysteries and surprises as the Castle of Otranto--corridors that
serpentine, stairways that leap from building to building, cabinets
masked in the recesses of dormer-windows, curious covered bridges
worthy of Venice. Looking up or down one of these streets, the eye is
astonished by the long patch-work of colors motley as Joseph's coat,
ultimately fading off into grayish-blues where the vista meets the
horizon. Under the golden glow of the sun these tints take delightful
warmth; there are chrome and gamboge yellows, deep-sea greens, ashen
pinks, brick reds, chocolates, azures, blazing whites, all trimmed with
the intenser green of iron balconies and the antiquated window-shutters
folded back against the wall. The old French Opera-house I have seen
painted in a peculiarly pleasing hue, to which a summer sun would lend
the mellowness of antique marble. It was a ripe-ivorine tint, with
just the faintest conceivable flush of pink; it was a warm and human
color--it was the color of creole flesh!
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