Leaves from the Note-Books of Lady Dorothy NevillNevill, Dorothy, Lady
History
Leaves from the Note-Books of Lady Dorothy Nevill
Nevill, Dorothy, Lady
Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 20th century
People when on a journey in old days were not very particular about
their food; indeed, too often thoroughly tired and worn out, they were
thankful to get anything to eat at all. Now pretty well every one who is
able to afford it is luxurious, and Spartan habits are at a discount.
Nevertheless there seem to be no noted gourmets to-day such as used to
exist in the past. Foremost amongst those, of course, was Abraham
Hayward, whose _Art of Dining_ is, I suppose, but little read at the
present time, when many of his gastronomic ideas would be considered
quite out of date. His contention, for instance, that the comparative
merits of pies and puddings present a problem difficult to decide, would
seem somewhat ridiculous to _bons vivants_ of the present day, when
puddings, formerly so popular, are, except in the sick-room, rarely
seen. Plum-pudding, of course, still maintains its ancient place. It may
not be generally known that it originated from plum-porridge, a first
course always served at Christmas in the seventeenth century. This was
prepared by boiling beef or mutton with a broth thickened by brown
bread, raisins, currants, cloves, nutmegs, ginger, and other condiments
being inserted when it was half-cooked.
The English are very contemptuous of many excellent things which their
country affords. Amongst these is the truffle, which, though perhaps not
equal in flavour to that of Périgord—called by Brillat Savarin the
diamond of the kitchen—is yet most delicious when properly cooked.
Besides this, owing to the small esteem in which it is held, its price
is exceedingly moderate, English truffles being purchasable in Covent
Garden Market at about one-eighth the price of the French variety. Years
ago, when staying at the Grange in Hampshire, I asked my host, the late
Lord Ashburton, whether he had ever thought of hunting for truffles in
his park, abounding as it did in beech trees, under which, in this
country, these esculents are found. He told me that he believed there
were plenty of truffles, but it was not worth the trouble of searching
for them, as no one cared for English truffles. I assured him that he
was wrong, for they were excellent; and, yielding to my entreaties, he
sent out orders for search to be made, and the next evening we had
English truffles for dinner, which were served merely as truffles,
without any announcement as to their nationality. Every one ate them,
and every one said they were delicious, and from that day to this the
English truffle, when in season, has continually been included in the
menu of the dinners served at the country house in question. Truffles
exist also at Goodwood and in Highclere Park—in fact, pretty well
everywhere where there are beech trees. The difficulty in obtaining them
seems to lie in the paucity of truffle-hunting dogs, which, of course,
have to be specially trained for their work. No doubt, were some easy
means discovered of finding truffles, their excellences would become
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