Leaves from the Note-Books of Lady Dorothy NevillNevill, Dorothy, Lady
History
Leaves from the Note-Books of Lady Dorothy Nevill
Nevill, Dorothy, Lady
Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 20th century
better known, and a home-grown delicacy, which is now almost overlooked,
would take its proper place in public appreciation.
Crayfish are excellent eating, as I believe the Germans realised when
they entered France in 1870. I was told that for years afterwards the
supply of _écrevisses_ was very limited indeed.
Many years ago, at a time when I was living in Sussex, I formed the idea
of attempting to acclimatise the crayfish in a little stream which
appeared suitable to their habits, and accordingly, after everything had
been prepared under expert direction, a consignment of _écrevisses_,
sent from France, were duly placed in a pool specially enclosed with
gratings, and furnished with everything that the most luxurious crayfish
could possibly desire. The experiment, however, proved totally
unsuccessful, for after a time not so much as even a morsel of shell was
to be found. Another consignment shared exactly the same fate, and Lord
Onslow, who made a similar experiment in acclimatisation, informed me
that his efforts, like mine, had also ended in disaster. For a long time
I was much puzzled as to what might have caused the death and also the
mysterious disappearance of any remains of these _écrevisses_, but am
now convinced that it was the result of raids by predatory water-rats,
the possibility of which we had left out of our calculations.
A rather curious thing in connection with gastronomy is that for the
last two hundred years the dinner hour in England has been getting later
and later.
In Addison’s time people dined at two o’clock, but gradually dinner was
put off and put off till four or five became the popular hour for dining
amongst the well-to-do classes. With the beginning of the nineteenth
century came a further postponement, and the dinner hour soon came to be
fixed at some time about seven o’clock; since which period further
encroachments upon the evening have taken place, and now half-past eight
is by no means an unusual hour.
The old English dinner which I remember in my childhood was, of course,
simplicity itself as compared with the elaborate banquets of to-day.
Nevertheless, a well-cooked English dinner, now almost unobtainable, was
not by any means a thing to be despised.
A small turbot, some well-roasted lamb or duckling, with green peas,
followed by a good apple or apricot tart, are, when well cooked, as Lord
Dudley used to say, a dinner for an emperor, and, in addition, far more
healthy than many a more costly and ambitious repast.
I well remember, as a child, my father sitting at the head of the table
and carving the joints himself, even when he gave a dinner-party. In
consequence of this we were in terror of asking for a second helping,
for even when only the family was present it was as much as he could do
to find time to eat his own dinner. The modern system is without doubt
much more convenient for everybody.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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