But for the beauty of all beauties neighbouring Dublin, give me Howth,
the mountainous peninsula, almost an island, all but a mountain, which
makes the northern limit of Dublin Bay. In all that long low eastern
shore it is the only piece of cliff scenery (for Bray Head can scarcely
deserve the title) and it commands an amazing prospect. On the north
of it lies the little old town, the quaint and beautiful harbour with
its seawalls, and across a narrow sound off the harbour is the little,
uninhabited, cliffy, fern-covered island of Ireland's Eye. "Eye" is
Danish for island; Howth is "hoved" (head), and the people of Fingal
keep near the Danish word, pronouncing almost Ho-at. The Irish name
was Benn Edair, (Edair's Cliff), and many a time it comes into Irish
story, mostly as the point from which heroes sailed or at which they
landed. Howth was the general landing place for Dublin until Kingstown
Harbour was constructed about a century ago and called after George IV.
But of all the heroes and kings and commonalty who crossed the Channel,
none deserves mention more than Mr. Robert Loraine, the actor. He flew
from Anglesey, and had all but accomplished his exploit when something
broke, and he directed his aeroplane to Howth, which was the point
nearest. A level shore he might have reached, but the cliff rose too
high for his sinking wings to surmount, so he plunged into the water a
stone's throw from land, and swam ashore somewhere near the Old Bailey
Lighthouse, which stands on a historic site, Dungriffen, that is the
Fortress of Criffan. Now Criffan (or Crimhthann) was King of Ireland in
the fourth century, at the beginning of the period when Irishmen made
many forays on the seas--in one of which Saint Patrick was captured
and brought a slave to Ireland. A good many people think all this
history legendary, a pack of fables. And very probably, if you had
told Crimhthann, when he ruled in his dun (or even the builders of the
Bailey Lighthouse when they were at work on his old rampart), that a
gentleman would come flying across from England and drop like a winged
bird off this promontory, they also would have been a trifle slow of
belief. Anyhow, Howth Head, with its memories of ancient robber kings,
Irish and Danish, and of all the folk who landed there from Chester,
or from Anglesey, down to this last and most surprising debarkation of
all, is surely a place of associated landmarks in history, as well as
probably the most beautiful spot in Ireland.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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