This is not a mere question of distance. Dublin hardly makes itself
felt beyond the immediate suburbs on the north and west: it stops with
the tram lines. And towards the mountains, if you leave your tram at
Rathfarnham, an hour's good walking will take you into a strangely wild
ravine. Follow the military road--driven through these hills after 1798
had shown how strong they were, to be the first effectual instrument
of subjugation--up towards Glencree, through Rockbrook, and so by a
long steep ascent you will reach a wood where the road divides, on the
shoulder of Tibradden, or the Kings' Burying Ground. To your right will
be Killikee, with Lord Massey's beautiful demesne, and woods covering
it almost to the top, but the bare summit crowned by a shattered
ruin--the "Hell Fire Club", built by young bloods in the wild duelling
and card-playing days of Dublin's gaiety. Turn your back on this and
follow to the left into Glen Cullen (the Holly Glen), which, dividing
Tibradden from Featherbed, sweeps round behind Two Rock and Three Rock,
and so, if you keep steadily by the left, brings you back into the
suburbs and villadom after a round of some sixteen miles. But you will
have traversed a glen as bare and lonely, as devoid of any suggestion
of a great city's nearness, as even Connemara could show.
Very beautiful it is, too, up there, on a fine day; and bilberries
grow to perfection among the deep heather on the slopes of Featherbed.
When I was last in it, instead of keeping to the left, we cut across
southward to the right by the first road out of the valley, and from
that height saw what is not often seen--the coast of Wales clearly
visible. Then, dropping swiftly, we reached a road which, leading
from the city through Dundrum, traverses the Scalp--a fine gorge of
tumbled stone with fine woods effectively planted; and so down a famous
coaching road to the pretty village of Enniskerry on the Dargle River,
and down along that river to Bray--and the train.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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