Suppose you are on deck when the mail boat from Holyhead has been two
hours out, or a little more (I write here for strangers), you will see
Dublin Bay open before you. To your right, making the northernmost horn
of the curve, is the rocky, almost mountainous, peninsula of Howth,
and ten miles north of it you see its shape repeated in the Island of
Lambay.
Except for that, to the north and to the west, coast and land are
all one wide level, far as your eye can reach--unless by some chance
the air be so rarefied that you discern, fifty miles northward, the
purple range of Carlingford Hills (still in Leinster), and beyond them,
delicate and aerial blue, the long profile of the Mourne Mountains,
where Ulster begins.
But to the south of the city (where it lies in the bight of the bay,
spilling itself northward along the shore to Clontarf of famous
memory, and southward to Kingstown and beyond) mountains rise, a dense
huddle of rounded, shouldering heights, stretching away far as you can
see. Near Dublin they almost touch the shore: one rocky spur comes
down to Dalkey Island, which was the deep-water landing place before
Kingstown harbour was built: it rises into the peaked fantastic summit
of Killiney Hill. Beyond it the coast curves in a little, giving a bay
and valley in which lies Bray, our Irish equivalent for Brighton. The
Bray river marks the limits of County Dublin; and beyond Bray again is
the high, serrated ridge of Bray Head, fronting the water in a cliff.
Landward from it rises, peak by peak, that exquisite chain of heights
which from Little Sugarloaf to Great Sugarloaf runs back to connect
here once more the main body of mountains with the sea.
Mr. Williams in his picture has shown Bray Head and the lesser
Sugarloaf in a glow of light which turns their heather covering to a
golden pink; and from his vantage on the slope of Killiney, he has been
able to catch the shape of Wicklow Head beyond and between the nearest
summits of this chain.
South of that, you, from your steamer, can distinguish how the margin
of land between mountain and coast line widens progressively. Wicklow
Head shoots far out into the sea; and beyond it you can trace the long,
low coast of Wexford projecting farther and farther from the hills.
Wicklow, in truth, is a ridge of mountains, with small apanages of
lowland on each side; Wexford, a level space east of the mountains
which separate it from the vast central plain, nearly all of which is
Leinster.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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