The work of Juan de Badajoz is to be seen in the Sacristy, a spacious
nave of three vaults, richly designed and gilded. Under the windows are
medallions with busts in relief, very well done. The retablo in the
plateresque style shows the Eternal Father with His angels, and the
Vision of Santiago. The inscriptions on the frieze are from the Book of
Leviticus.
Much good work is to be seen in the cloisters, begun in the Armada year
or thereabouts, but interest here chiefly centres in the Prior’s
apartments where the illustrious Quevedo was imprisoned by order of the
Count-Duke Olivares, from December 1639 to June 1643,--the penalty for
an all too true and biting lampoon.
Quevedo thus describes his prison in one of the letters to his friend
Adán de la Parra:--
‘Although at first I was imprisoned in a tower of this sacred
house, as roomy as it was light and warm for this season of the
year, a short time after by superior order (I will not say by
superior disorder) I was taken to another much more uncomfortable
one, where I am now. It is an underground room, as damp as a
spring, so dark that in it it is always night, and so cold that it
is always like January. It is undoubtedly more like a tomb than a
prison.... The latitude of this tomb, in which I am enclosed, is
barely twenty-four feet and the width nineteen. The roof and walls
are in many places fallen owing to the damp, and everything is so
black that it seems more like a hiding-place of fugitive thieves
than the prison of a man of honour. In order to enter it two
equally strong doors have to be passed; one is on the floor of the
convent and the other on the floor of my prison, after twenty-seven
steps designed like a precipice.... This is the life to which I am
doomed by him who, because I would not be his favourite, is now my
enemy.’
The grand façade of the old convent, extending to the river bank, is
divided into two stories, the lower characterised by semicircular
windows between pilasters in the plateresque style, and separated by
niches; the upper by rectangular windows with balconies, disposed
between columns, and likewise separated by niches in pairs. The frieze
beneath the lower row of windows is adorned by a series of medallions,
displaying the heads of mythological and historical worthies, Gentiles
and Christians, ancients and moderns, most oddly assorted. With Priam
and Hector, Hannibal and Cæsar, we find Charlemagne and the Cid, Charles
V. and Philip II., with Lucretia, Judith and Isabel the Catholic. The
busts to the left of the doorway are those of the grand masters of the
Order of Santiago. The doorway itself is a very unhappy combination of
the plateresque and baroque styles, but the statue of Fame surmounting
it is not devoid of grace and dignity. The balconies and windows facing
the river date from the eighteenth century.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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