The cathedral is built on very uneven ground, a circumstance which
rather enhances than detracts from its picturesqueness. O’Shea calls
attention to a remarkable trait in the exterior, rarely possessed by
buildings otherwise of equal merit: ‘We mean that the forms should be
bold projections or reproductions in relief of the internal parts, as in
embossing. Thus, in this cathedral, the eye embraces the inward
distribution at one glance from the shape of the parts outside.’ From a
distance the most conspicuous parts of the edifice are the steeples
surmounting the west front and the lantern over the crossing. The
delicacy and nobility of the spires, pinnacles, and open-work adorning
the glorious fabric tempt one to rhapsody. But so much beauty can be
adequately portrayed only by the brush, not by the pen.
The lowest stage of the western or main front is pierced by the three
doors corresponding to the nave and aisles within. Formerly rich in
sculpture, this part of the façade was rebuilt in the latter part of the
eighteenth century, in accordance with the pseudo-classical ideas of the
time, and robbed of nearly all its statuary. The ‘restorers’ spared the
statues of Alfonso VI., San Fernando, and the Bishops Maurice and
Astorio at the side of the Puerta Real (Central Door), and the
sculptures of the Coronation and Immaculate Conception of the Virgin
over the lateral entrances. This lowest stage of the west front in its
extreme plainness and severity presents an incomplete appearance when
contrasted with the much more elaborate and ancient work above. Over the
middle door, within a noble and gracefully moulded ogival arch, is a
large, finely traceried rose-window, lighting the nave. Above this again
are two windows, each of four lights, and their upper parts filled with
beautiful tracery. Before each light stands the statue of a youth
crowned. Over this highest stage of the middle division of the west
front is the inscription _Pulchra est et decora_ carved in stone, and
forming a balustrade, which is adorned by statues of the Redeemer, the
Madonna, and the Baptist.
Over the side doors rise the towers, surmounted with steeples, built for
Bishop Alfonso de Cartagena (1435-1456) by the artist, probably a
German, called Juan de Colonia, or John of Cologne. These steeples rise
to a height of three hundred feet, and, except at the lowest story, are
detached from the rest of the edifice. They are adorned with tall
pointed windows, the space for two of these on the second stage of the
north tower being covered, however, by the seventeenth-century clock.
The pinnacles themselves are wonderful examples of delicate fretted
stone-work. Street saw little beauty, however, in Juan de Colonia’s
work, adding that the bells in the spires were the most misshapen he had
ever seen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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