Next in order of interest, and probably of date, comes San Gil, a
cruciform structure in the north of the city, founded, or at any rate
rebuilt, in the fourteenth century. Its chief treasure is a
wrought-iron pulpit, with very beautiful tracery, in part gilded. Very
curious are the effigies in the floor of the church, with bodies of
black marble and heads and hands of white. Another feature of the
building worthy of notice is the mixture of painting and sculpture and
carving in the decoration of the chapels on each side of the choir. The
retablos are gorgeous, and some of the tombs interesting and apparently
very ancient.
Only the very patient or enthusiastic sightseer will trouble to visit
the other churches of Burgos, which, as it seems to me, contain little
to reward one’s curiosity. San Nicolás, a sixteenth-century parish
church, being close to the cathedral, should not be neglected. The life
of the saint--the patron of youth--is illustrated in some ancient
paintings in the north aisle and on the admirably carved stone retablo
of the high altar. This fine work, as an inscription declares, was the
gift of Gonsalvo Solanco and his wife Leonor de Miranda, both of whom
are buried here. The tombs in these old forgotten churches are generally
interesting. St. Lesmes contains the sepulchre of the patron, a devout
French monk, who lived in the reign of Alfonso VI., but whose cult never
seems to have spread beyond Castile.
The old convent of San Pablo, now appropriated to military uses, is
hardly worth a visit, but the story of its founder, Bishop Pablo de
Santa Maria, is, as Street remarks, worth telling. Originally a Jew, he
was baptized a Christian in 1390. Of his four sons one at least followed
his example, and afterwards became Bishop of Siguenza; but his wife,
Juana, remained deaf to all his persuasions and refused to abandon the
faith of her fathers. Accordingly he had the marriage legally dissolved,
and was ordained priest. In 1415, being then at Valladolid, he was
raised to the episcopal see of his native city, and among those who met
him upon his induction were ‘his venerable mother, Doña Maria, and his
well-loved wife, Juana.’ His well-loved wife, despite their religious
differences, she seems to have remained, for she was buried near her
husband in this church of San Pablo, unconverted to the last. The bishop
survived her fifteen years. It is strange that these tombs should have
been spared in the days of Torquemada, when many bishops of Jewish
ancestry were compelled to disinter the bones of their remote ancestors
to save them from the fury of the new school of Christians.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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