The building itself, unfortunately, has disappeared. It was pulled down
in 1524 to make room for the present superb edifice, designed by Juan de
Alava, the fellow-workman of Hontañon, who was succeeded by four other
architects, till the completion of the work in 1610. The church is
accounted one of the two or three most important monuments of the middle
Renaissance period in Spain. The main façade, in the soft sandstone
usual here, exhibits a marvellous profusion of figures, ‘excellently
wrought, beautiful of themselves,’ remarks a critic, ‘but lacking in
appropriateness, and not forming a part of a comprehensive scheme.’ On
each side of the doorway, between pillars, are seen the figures of four
of the Dominican saints; above, between four similarly placed statues of
the doctors of the church, is an admirable relief of the Martyrdom of
St. Stephen, executed by Juan Ceroni of Milan, who has carved his name
and the date (1610) on the stones which were the instruments of the
saint’s death. Above this, again, is a Crucifixion, overshadowed by the
great arch which encloses the whole façade. The medallions and friezes
exhibit very careful and graceful workmanship.
The side façades are mainly Gothic in character. Each buttress is
surmounted by an ornate pinnacle. The nave is almost as spacious as that
of the cathedral. The six-pointed vaults spring from fluted columns, and
are brilliant with gilding. The windows of three lights and the
rose-windows above are filled with good stained glass. The gorgeous
retablo, which cost the Duke of Alba 4000 of his pine trees, is the work
of Churriguera; its garishness is redeemed by the fine painting of the
Martyrdom of St. Stephen by Claudio Coello, and the curious
twelfth-century image of the Virgin de la Vega in gilt bronze. Over the
choir, built by Bishop de Aranjo, is the fine Apotheosis of St.
Dominic, a fresco by Palomino. The frescoes over the altar of the Rosary
and in the chapel of the Cristo de la Luz are by his contemporary,
Villamor. In the chapel of St. John is the tomb of Don Lope de Paz, the
defender of Rhodes and Eubœa, and in a wooden urn in the Reliquary
chapel are contained the ashes of the terror of the Low Countries,
Fernando de Toledo, Duke of Alba.
The chapter-house is a grandiose apartment, with pillars of the Doric
order, and a Corinthian altar beneath a canopy. Here may be seen some
bas-reliefs of the thirteenth century from the old church. In the
magnificent sacristy is the tomb of Bishop Herrera of Tuy, who died in
1632, and is shown in a kneeling posture. More interesting is the
cloister, with its early Renaissance arcading and fanwork vaulting. Some
of the medallions and reliefs which adorn the cloister were designed by
Alfonso Sardiña in 1626. The noble staircase adorned by a Magdalene,
which was executed by order of the illustrious Dominican theologian,
Fray Domingo Soto, of whom it was punningly said, ‘Qui scit Sotum, scit
totum.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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