The seminary, built in 1617 by Gómez de Mora for the Society of Jesus,
is a building of the type more commonly admired by Spaniards than other
peoples. It is vast and heavy, commanding respect by its bulk rather
than its proportions. Over the façade, with its six gigantic columns,
rise two lofty steeples, flanking an acroterium with very bad statuary.
The cupola or lantern is not ungracefully constructed, but spoilt with
indifferent ornamentation. The interior is cold and monotonous, though
free from the extravagant decoration of the epoch of its construction.
The sacristy, which contains four copies of paintings by Rubens, is vast
even for this vast church, the richest Jesuit establishment in Spain.
Another great but much less admirable pile is the church of the
Recollect Augustine nuns, the convent having been founded in 1626 by the
favourite of Felipe IV., the Count of Monterey, as a retreat for his
sister, Doña Catilina. The architect was Juan Fontana. The church is in
the usual shape of a Latin cross, and is richly adorned with coloured
marbles, jasper, and lapis lazuli. The architecture was spoilt by
injudicious repairs effected on the collapse of the dome in 1680. The
tombs of the founder and his wife are in indifferent taste, but the
statues are good. The church is rich in paintings. Ribera’s Conception
hangs over the high altar, and the handsome retablo is adorned by his
Virgin de la Piedad. In the transept are two other works of the same
master--Our Lady of the Rosary and the Nativity. These paintings were
bought in Naples by Monterey, then viceroy, at the time of the papal
pronouncement on the mystery of the Immaculate Conception. According to
Ford, it is believed that better pictures are preserved in the convent
itself, which is not open to visitors.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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