Hardly any one knows those singular spots,--la Glacière, la Cimette,
the hideous wall of Grenelle pock-marked with bullets, the Mont
Parnasse, the Fosse aux Loups, the Tombe Issoire, or the Pierre Plate
de Chatillon, where there is an old exhausted quarry, which is now
only employed to grow mushrooms, and is closed by a heap of rotten
boards flush with the ground. The Campagna of Rome is an idea, and
the banlieue of Paris is another: to see in what an horizon offers
us nought but fields, houses, or trees, is to remain on the surface;
for all the aspects of things are the thoughts of God. The spot where
a plain forms its junction with a town is always imprinted with a
species of penetrating melancholy; for nature and humanity address you
simultaneously, and local peculiarities make their appearance there.
Any one who has wandered as we have in those solitudes contiguous to
our suburbs which might be called the Limbos of Paris has seen here
and there, at the most deserted spot, and at the most unexpected
moment, behind a scrubby hedge, or in the corner of some melancholy
wall, children grouped tumultuously, fetid, muddy, dusty, unkempt, and
ragged, playing together, wreathed with corn-flowers. They are the
little runagates of poor families: this external boulevard is their
breathing medium, and the banlieue belongs to them, and they eternally
play truant in it. They ingenuously sing there their repertory of
unclean songs. They are there, or, to speak more correctly, they dwell
there, far from any eye, in the gentle warmth of May or June. Circling
round a hole in the ground and snapping marbles, like irresponsible,
freed, and happy beings, so soon as they perceive you they remember
that they have a trade and must gain their livelihood, and they offer
to sell you an old wool stocking full of may-bugs, or a spray of lilac.
Such a meeting with chance children is one of the charming and yet
poignant graces of the environs of Paris.
Sometimes there are girls among the heap of boys,--are they their
sisters?--almost grown up, thin, feverish, sunburnt and freckled,
crowned with wheat-ears and poppies, gay, haggard, and barefooted. You
may see them eating cherries among the wheat, and at night hear them
laugh. These groups, warmly illumined by the bright light of mid-day,
or seen in the twilight, for a long time occupy the dreamer, and these
visions are mingled with his dreams.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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