Letters and Journals of James, Eighth Earl of ElginElgin, James Bruce, Earl of
History
Letters and Journals of James, Eighth Earl of Elgin
Elgin, James Bruce, Earl of
Great Britain -- Colonies -- Administration -- History -- 19th century
_Steamer 'Simla.'--May 9th._--I had only a few moments to write before
we left Suez, and my writing, such as it was, I performed under
difficulties, as the bustle of passengers finding their cabins, and
conveying to them their luggage, or such portions of it as they could
rescue from its descent into the hold, was going on all around me. I
had, therefore, only time to tell you that our visit to the Pyramids
has been a success. It was one of the greatest which I ever achieved
in that line. It came about in this way. When Baron Gros and I,
accompanied by _Betts Bey_, the chief director of the railway, were
journeying in our pachalic state-carriage from Alexandria to Cairo, a
question arose as to how we were to spend the few hours which we
should have to remain at the latter place. I expressed a desire to see
the Pyramids, as I had witnessed all the other lions of Cairo. But
Betts Bey observed, that to go there during the day, at this season of
the year, was a service of considerable danger, the risk of sunstroke
being more than usually great. We were, in fact, traversing Egypt
during the period (of about six weeks' duration) when the wind from
the south blows, and the only air one receives is like the blast of a
furnace heavily charged with sand. He added, however, that it was not
impossible to go to the Pyramids at night, remain there till dawn, see
the sunrise from the summit, and return before the great heats of the
day. When I found myself at Cairo, I proposed to my _entourage_ that
we should undertake this expedition. My proposal was eagerly accepted,
especially by 'Our own Correspondent,' Mr. Bowlby, who is a remarkably
agreeable person, and has become very much one of our party. It was
arranged that we should dine at the _table d'hote_ at 7 P.M., start at
9, in carriages to the crossing of the Nile (about four miles), and on
donkeys from Gieja (about six miles). The Pasha's state-coach came to
the door at the appointed hour; we started, our own party, Mr. Bowlby,
Captain F., and M. de B., Gros' secretary. Gros himself, having twice
seen the Pyramids, declined going with us. The moon was very nearly
full, and but for the honour of the thing we might have dispensed with
the torch-bearers, who ran before the carriage and preceded the
donkeys, after we adopted that humbler mode of locomotion. Our row
across the river to the chant of the boatmen invoking the aid of a
sainted dervish, and our ride through the fertile borders of the Nile,
covered with crops and palm-trees, were very lovely, and, after about
an hour and a half from Cairo, we emerged upon the Desert. The
Pyramids seemed then almost within reach of our outstretched arms, but
lo! they were in fact some four miles distant. We kept moving on at a
sort of ambling walk; and the first sign of our near approach was the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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