seen more in their original condition here than in most other parts of
Australia—repulsive-looking, dark-brown figures, their hair and bodies
smeared with grease, boomerangs and spears in their hands, and opossum
skins sewn together hung on them as on a clothes-horse, and making a
poor apology for clothing.
It is hard to understand how the settlement contrived to exist at
all before the days when the Peninsular and Oriental steamers made it
a coaling-station, and a place for meeting the Adelaide steamer. But
it is an old settlement, as I was reminded in a very unexpected and
startling way by an object that I should as soon have expected to see
in Belgrave Square as there—a common parish _Stocks_, in perfect repair!
But at noon the _Bombay’s_ gun booms over the dead silence of the sunny
landscape, as a signal to go on board again, and we take our last
look at Australia. In the _Bombay_ one seems to be already almost in
India. The ship’s company are a medley of races from Europe, Asia, and
Africa. The officers of course, and the quartermasters, and a few more,
are English. But the great majority are black or bronze-coloured. The
captain has a boat’s crew of nine fine sailor-like Malays, who cannot
speak a word of English. Amongst the stewards in the saloon are two
or three pure African negroes, and very good servants they are. The
firemen and stokers are long, lean, gaunt, black Abyssinians. The rest
of the crew is perhaps made up of Lascars or other natives of India,
small feeble-looking men, whom one sees eating their meagre fare of
rice and curry, half a dozen of them squatting on the deck round a
bowl of it, into which they dip their long bony fingers. They have
to make up by their numbers for their want of muscle. To see a dozen
of them pulling at a rope you would think each of them was afraid of
breaking it. It is a sight to see all the crew mustered on Sunday
morning for inspection on the after-deck, ranged in order according
to their different departments, and each dressed in his cleanest and
best. Side by side with the English sailor’s dress are turbans, and
tunics of green, red, or yellow silk, and bracelets, and all the
brilliant colours of Oriental costume. Yet all this heterogeneous crew
is in perfect discipline. The orderliness, cleanliness, and smartness
of the decks, and of everything on board, is a great contrast to the
ordinary condition of a merchant ship, and comes very near to that of a
man-of-war.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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